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April 20th, 2011

Snapshot from the road: Time travel in the Nu Valley

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

Sometimes when on the road, the past and present can collide in the most unexpected of places. We were reminded of this recently when on the road in the lush upper reaches of the Salween River in Yunnan, where the river is known as the Nu River.

It was a Sunday morning and we’d been enjoying the Tibetan-style Buddhist architecture in hills near the remote town of Bingzhongluo. The fresh, invigorating air filled our lungs as we headed down into the valley, where we came upon a rebuilt Catholic church that had originally been constructed more than a century ago.

It was half past ten and mass was going to start at eleven. A small crowd of worshippers from the Lisu ethnic group was waiting to enter the building. We walked around to one side of the church where we came upon a small graveyard with only one headstone.

Upon closer inspection, we made out the name of the deceased: “Annet Genestier”. The name rang a bell instantly, as just one night earlier we had  re-read some of famed botanist/explorer Joseph Rock’s impressions of traveling through the Nu Valley, which were published in an article in National Geographic from August, 1926 entitled “Through The Great River Trenches of Asia”.

In the article, Rock described the animosity between local Tibetan lamas and a French church and mission, led by a stubborn priest surnamed Genestier.

Relating what back then was recent history of the mission, Rock wrote:

“Twice it has been burned by the Tibetan lamas of Champutong, and twice intrepid Father Genestier, who still lives in the Salwin Valley… had to flee for his life and find shelter among the Lissu further south.”

In 1937, Pêre Genestier died and was buried in this remote spot far from his native France. Standing deep in the mist-filled Nu Valley, we scanned our surroundings. It was hard not to feel that Genestier had stood in the same place nearly a century ago and seen almost the exact same scene that laid before us.

Whenever we travel, we do our best to read, or re-read, books or other materials about the places we plan on visiting. This not only gets us even more excited about our upcoming destinations, but small, almost negligible information such as the last name of a priest can suddenly make a connection that spans decades or even centuries.

These kinds of connections are at the heart of the importance of travel to our understanding of who we are and where we’ve come from.

———

For more information about this remote and still unknown region, also check out the film Deep in the Clouds by Liu Jie, winner of the Sydney Chinese Film Festival for Best Director. Also, travel to this destination on our WildChina journey From the Salween to the Mekong: Hiking the 19th Century French Explorers’ Route.

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April 19th, 2011

A hiker’s China dream: The trails of Huangshan and Jiuzhaigou

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

For many people, travel is a great excuse to be lazy and pampered, but for others of us, it’s a perfect opportunity to not only to get a little exercise but to do so among some of the world’s most stunning scenery and unique cultures.

We designed our Yosemite Sister Parks in China journey with the latter group in mind. This trip focuses on the natural splendor of Huangshan and Jiuzhaigou, which are sister parks of the renowned Yosemite National Park in the US.

This 13-day journey takes travelers deep into two of China’s biggest and most scenic national parks, with a focus on hiking in an around these parks with naturalist Pete Devine of Yosemite Conservancy.

Huangshan has been the subject of countless paintings and poems over the centuries and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although Huangshan’s elevation is only 6,115 feet (1,864 meters), it is much higher than the surrounding areas and offers spectacular panoramic views.

No visit to Huangshan is complete without taking in the jawdropping beauty of the North Sea Sunrise, just a 10-minute walk from our lodging, in which the sun emerges from a sea of clouds to astounding effect. But Huangshan isn’t just about peaks, we’ll explore some of the park’s lesser-known gems, including the unforgettable trails of the Xihai Grand Canyon.

Jiuzhaigou is known for its amazing iridescent pools and unblemished mountain forests. The park, also a UNESCO World Heritage site, runs through the valleys of the Min mountain range. Jiuzhaigou’s gorgeous trails wind through old growth forest covered in lichen, moss, giant ferns and rhododendrons.

But that’s just beginning. Jiuzhaigou is brimming with lakes and waterfalls. Streams and springs from the surrounding karst mountains feed the lakes with runoff that is high in calcium carbonate. This imbues the lakes with otherworldly shades of turquoise and blue and transforms fallen trees resting on the lake bottoms into what look like coral reefs. Every twist and turn of the trails in Jiuzhaigou, and nearby Huanglong which we also visit, hold new and unexpected surprises.

To balance out the active components of this journey, there is also down time to sip tea on Hangzhou’s legendary West Lake, step back in time in the picturesque town of Hongcun, view China’s ‘national treasures’ at the giant panda base at Bifengxia or set your taste buds ablaze in Chengdu.

This once-in-a-lifetime trip begins on September 14, which means if you want to join, you’ll have to book your spot by June 14. To learn more about how to experience China’s national parks differently, contact us today.

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April 18th, 2011

Family Travel Contest: I is for Spy, T is for Treasure Hunts

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

The following is a post from The Perrin Post by Wendy Perrin of Conde Nast Traveler Magazine. WildChina founder Zhang Mei shares tips on traveling with children…

WildChina founder Zhang Mei with 5 and 2-year old daughters in Cambodia

Today’s tips come from Mei Zhang, mom of three (ages 8, 5, and 2), founder of travel company WildChina, and one of the China experts on my list (updated and published annually in Condé Nast Traveler) of the world’s best travel specialists. Mei’s hard-earned wisdom:

1. Slow down the pace and allow kids (and yourself) down time.
We tend to feel pressured to pack too many things into one day’s travel plan. The pressure is well justified, as we are often talking about thousands of dollars of plane rides for the family. But, in the end, kids get grumpy, parents get exhausted–a lose/lose situation. So I often plan just one major outing for each day and leave the rest of the time for hanging out. Take Cambodia as an example. The temples can get repetitive really quickly, so I made a deal with the kids: one temple a day! That, plus the time they spent watching monkeys on the temple grounds, would usually take us till noon, then we’d grab a nice lunch in one of the roadside restaurants, then back to the hotel for the baby to nap while the older kids watch an afternoon movie and I get a massage. Then it’s pool time, followed by excursions for dinner and ice cream in local markets.

2. Stay put in a place at least 2 to 3 nights before moving.
City hopping is driven by the same pressure–that feeling that you’ve got to see everything! Wrong. It burns out the kids and you. Stay in a place a little longer so they develop a sense of routine, which calms them down.

3. Try to take 1 or 2 kids on a special “date” trip with mommy or daddy.
We often travel as a whole family entourage for Christmas and spring break, but at other times I try to take the kids on separate trips to match their time and interests. The younger ones could afford missing preschool for long stretches at a time, so I took them to China with me for 6 weeks; we covered Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong, then Cambodia. I didn’t want the older child to feel left out, so I took him on a cruise to Patagonia, since observing animals and hiking in nature is his love; if we’d had the little ones with us, we wouldn’t have been able to do as much.

4. Whenever it’s affordable, hire a guide; sometimes he or she can double as a sitter.
Cambodia_temple_guideI’ve often found this possible on my travels. Most guides in China and Cambodia are so eager to help that they are willing to spend time with the kids. When I had 3 kids with me at the Great Wall, the oldest one ran fast, while the baby was still in my arms, so the guide willingly took the hand of the middle child and helped her up and down those steep stairs. Same thing in Cambodia: I hired a guide for the day (our guide, Jet, is pictured at right), but we were done with touring by lunch time, so he happily played games with the children back at the hotel. It’s fun to see the kids learning different games from different cultures.

5. Create games for the kids.
Angkor Wat and the Forbidden City are really boring for kids after five minutes. So I’ve taken what we do at WildChina into my personal trips, playing I Spy games and doing treasure hunts with the kids. At Angkor Thom, for instance, there is a huge fresco/wall carving depicting Buddhist historical stories, so we had the kids look for the Fish, the Monkey, etc. That was their favorite thing!

———-

Wendy Perrin is Condé Nast Traveler‘s Director of Consumer News and Digital Community. To contact her, please e-mail wperrin@cntraveler.com or follow her on Twitter @wendyperrin. Share and submit your own tips for traveling with kids into the A-to-Z Family Travel Contest for a chance to win a $16,000 family vacation in the Caribbean. See website for details.

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April 15th, 2011

WildChina again recognized as leader in sustainable travel in China

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

The natural dye used by a traditional Bai artisan to color the batik seen drying here in Lijiang was made from isatis root, a medicinal herb.

At WildChina, we’re quite proud of our pioneering dedication to pursuing environmentally sustainable travel in China, and we’re not afraid to show it.

That said, it’s always nice when other people recognize us for our efforts to bring environmental consciousness and sustainable best practices to China’s travel industry.

That’s exactly what happened recently on the Asia-focused news site Asia Sentinel in this article about ecotourism in China by writer Wendy Fung. In her story, Fung singles out WildChina as the only real option for sustainable tourism in the Middle Kingdom.

As Fung explains:

“… WildChina’s team of local Chinese tour guides and expatriate employees offer customized, guided eco-sensitive tours. For each trip, the company keeps the environmental impact in mind by controlling client volume to each destination, encouraging travelers to engage in activities that do not require a lot of infrastructure (such as hiking and camping out), and thoroughly cleaning up after each trip to preserve the environment. WildChina is rare in its approach to environmental sustainability…

The company’s active involvement in China’s civil society lends it more credibility as a sustainable tour operator with many of its environmentally conscious clientele. “

We couldn’t have said it better ourselves!

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April 14th, 2011

Re: Memories from Hangzhou

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

In summer 2009, I studied abroad in Shanghai with @CET Academic Programs… Like many areas of China, summers in the city are sticky and muggy, with humidity so thick it’s almost palpable.   Looking for a way out, my friends and I began to brainstorm weekend travel options.  Little did we know that we would be offered a trip for free!

Two of my guy friends were walking together down the street.  To give a bit of context, both of these guys stand out quite a bit in China: One is a Caucasian, brown hair stands at a seemingly staggering height of 6’4’’.  The other is a 6’2’’ Nigerian soccer buff.  In the middle of the Chinese masses, they tended to stand out wherever they went. This afternoon was no different.  A young, muscular Chinese man approached them and asked if they were interested in a free trip to Hangzhou.

The guys looked at each other, nodded in agreement and said, “Dangran!”  (“Of course!”)

Thirty minutes later…the two show up at our dorms, bang on our doors and say, “We should all be in the Dragon Boat Festival!”

Apparently, the deal was this: If they could round up other strong, “Western-looking” friends to participate in Hangzhou’s Dragon Boat Festival, the company (who knows who they were) would sponsor all expenses: transportation, food, accommodations, participation fees, everything.

My friend Kristen and I, both Chinese Americans, said, “Well, what about us? The huaqiao’s in the group?”  We had to pay our way, and they gave us a discount…but still! We were a bit disappointed in the outright discrimination.

On our bus ride over, we met other Westerners participating in the trip, as well as our Chinese teammates.  We were dropped off at a hotel and told to rest for the race the next day.  We spent the day walking around the city and West Lake which, like Pat attested in his last post, was a much needed break from the hustle and bustle of Shanghai.

The next day, we woke up, ate breakfast, and headed out to the race.  My friends who were “qualified” participants were given proper team polos.  (Because there were so many of us, the Westerners were divided up into two teams.) As shown below, Kristen and I played the role of supportive cheerleaders / bag holders.

Our friends then strapped on their bright orange life vests, got into the water and splashed their way to the starting line.

Kristen and I headed to receive them at the finish line.  On our way, we wandered through this charming & quaint village:

We spent about an hour just hanging around, exploring the cute shops, and chatting with to other local visitors who were there to cheer on their friends..

After a while, we began to hear people buzzing that the rowers were close.  We ran to the edge of the water, and sure enough in the distance was a line of bright, orange blobs that were our friends’ life vests.  We all began jumping and yelling, “Faster! Faster! C’mon! You can do it!” The rowers blew past the finish line and yelped a big, “Yeeeeahhh!” My friends’ teams ended up in first and second place respectively!

That evening, we were invited to a celebratory banquet with the race sponsors (and possibly a handful of important town leaders…I don’t really know).  There, my friends were not only presented beautiful awards – intricately carved wooden boats and framed local paintings served as trophies – but they also had the embarrassing opportunity to entertain the crowd.

The boys decided the Chinese children’s song “Liang zhi laoshu” would be most appropriate. Most of the crowd chuckled and clapped along supportively while others looked around at each other in awkward confusion. Haha – For my friends and I, it was the perfect ending to a completely spontaneous but perfect weekend!

———

Nancy is a marketing associate at WildChina’s Beijing office.

We now encourage you to share your own stories about Hangzhou – what did you see, how did you feel, what were your general impressions, etc. Also, check out the New York Timesarticle “Next Stop: The Poetry of Hangzhou” to learn more about this unique city - http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/04/10/travel/10next-hangzhou-china.html?ref=travel

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April 14th, 2011

NEW WildChina Journey – Photo Expedition with Sean Gallagher: Silk Road Through Your Lens

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

The sandy regions, snow covered mountains and colorful Uighur costumes of China’s wild west, make Xinjiang a paradise for photography. WildChina and leading British photographer, Sean Gallagher, have worked together to design a unique and unprecedented photography boot camp along the ancient Silk Road. Intended for people who are passionate about photography and travel and looking to hone their skills in one of China’s most diverse and fascinating regions, this trip will cover shooting techniques including landscape, portrait, and time-lapse photography. Sean will lead us through the old town of Kashgar and century old bazaars where you’ll see the area’s unique Uighur culture and geographical diversity using your photographer’s eye.

This past week, Sean joined us for jiaozi lunch, so we were able to sit down and have a quick chat with him about the trip…

WildChina (WCT): Sean, you first caught our eye because your tag on Twitter described your work as “Raising awareness about environmental issues and understanding of China, through photography, video and multimedia“.  How did you become interested in this type of work?

Sean Gallagher (SG): My interest in environmental issues stems from my time at University in the UK where I studied Zoology. It was during this time that I visited the Atlantic Rainforest, just outside Rio de Janeiro, as part of my studies. I was just discovering photography at this point, and I found it to be a wonderful tool to document many of the issues affecting the area, including deforestation and habitat destruction. From this point, I decided that I would use photography to help me convey my concerns about the environment.

WCT: When you decided to partner with WildChina, why did you choose the Silk Road in Xinjiang as the destination? Do you have any favorite stories you like to tell from your trips in that area?

SG: I first visited Xinjiang in 2009 and was immediately captivated by the western reaches of China. The Silk Road is a classic travel route however when travelling in the region, you still feel the past through the people and landscapes of the region. The Uighurs, who make up a large portion of the population, are intriguing in their distinctive culture and appearance. The landscapes in which they live are so diverse, from deserts to mountains to glaciers. For photography, it’s arguably one of the best places in the whole country.

During my first trip in 2009, we travelled deep into the mountains of eastern Xinjiang to visit an ancient abandoned city. Along the way, we got a flat tyre which delayed our journey time meaning we had to enter a dangerous mountain pass late in the evening. As our car weaved along the crumbling mountain road, we gazed into the darkness as the drop disappeared away from us. It was a scary experience! Eventually, we arrived at the home of some local Uighur farmers whom we were to stay with for the evening. Even though we arrived so late, the local family proceeded to bring out a banquet of food and serenaded us with Uighur songs into the night. We were the only ones for miles. It was a really special experience.

WCT: What are you looking forward to the most on the October trip? What do you hope to teach the people who join you on the trip this fall?

SG: I think I am most looking forward to meeting and working with a group of photographers who are keen discover Xinjiang through photography. There is always a great camaraderie when photographers get together and I am sure this trip will be no exception.

I’m also very much looking forward to trying to help people improve their photography during this trip. Each photographer may have a different goal but my aim is to help each photographer improve and take away with them, not only images, but a new approach and idea to photography which will ultimately make them better photographers.

WCT: Do you have any advice or tips for amateur photographers shooting the Silk Road? Are there cultural sensitivities they should be aware of, things not to take pictures of?

SG: Xinjiang is a region where religion is very evident. The Uighurs are Muslim, so there are large numbers of mosques in the region and it is commonplace to see people worshipping. At the beginning of the trip, I will advise participants about some of the best ways to go about photographing in this region, so as to avoid any problems. I have found that most people are more than happy to be photographed in Xinjiang; however, we will of course have to be sensitive and respectful of the local customs. Our guides and I will help participants through this at all times.

WCT: What is your favorite Silk Road site to photograph?

SG: I really enjoy photographing in and around the Taklamakan desert, an immense sea of moving sand which is second only in size to the Sahara. It’s often brutal desolation makes for a dramatic landscape to photograph. Spending the night in the desert is a unique experience. For the truly dedicated photographers you can awake early, stargaze and then wait for the sun to rise over the dunes. It’s an unforgettable experience.

WCT: What camera and equipment are you currently using?

SG: I like to travel as light as possible when travelling. As a working photographer, I often spend long days on my feet, so it essential to strip my gear down to only what I really need on any given day. My basic set-up for the work we will be doing on the silk road will be a Canon 7D with 16-35mm, 50mm and 70-200mm lenses. I will also have with me small flash and small tripod. I recommend participants also look hard at their equipment and decide which items they really need and keep it to the essentials.

WCT: Do you have any other stories or advice you’d like to share?

SG: As well as camera gear, I would advise participants to bring along with them an open mind. For me, photography is a tool to help me discover and understand people and issues better. To do this effectively, it is best to leave at home your preconceptions about a place, or its people. If you are able to do this, it will help make your images better as you steer clear of cliches and discover your unique perspective on the region and its people.

———

This photo expedition departs on October 1, 2011, and is priced from USD 3,590.  Read here for more details or e-mail info@wildchina.com with your inquiries.

Sean Gallagher is a leading British photographer and videographer whose work focuses on people, culture and environmental issues. His work has appeared in publications including TIME Magazine, The New York Times, The Globe and Mail, Der Spiegel and National Geographic China. In 2010, he was the official photographer for the visit of British Prime Minister, David Cameron, to China.

Recipient of numerous awards and grants, he is notably a two-time recipient of the prestigious Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting travel grant. His images have been exhibited internationally and he has been invited to present his photographic work on China to institutions across the world including Georgetown University, The Climate Institute, The Natural Resources Defence Council and at the EU-Biodiversity seminars hosted by the Shanghai World Expo.

To read more about Sean, visit his website at http://gallagher-photo.com/

Image: Sean Gallagher

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April 13th, 2011

6 tips for traveling with kids in Asia

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

One of the perks of my job is traveling with my kids. Over the years, I’ve saved up a few tips to share.

Fish Spa in Cambodia

1. Slow down the Pace and allow kids (and yourself) down time.
We tend to feel pressured to pack too many things into one day’s travel plan. The pressure is well justified as we are often talking about thousands of dollars of plane rides for the family, so get as much as you can.  But, in the end, kids get grumpy, parents are exhausted. To me, that’s a lose/lose situation.  So, I often plan just one major outing for each day, and have the rest of the time for hanging out.  Take Cambodia as an example, the temples can get repetitive really quickly.  So, I made a deal with the kids, one temple a day! That plus the time they spent watching monkeys in the temple grounds would usually take us to noon, then, we grab a nice lunch in one of the road side restaurant, back to hotel for the baby to nap, the older kids for an afternoon movie, while I get a massage.  Then it’s pool time, followed by excursions for dinner and ice cream in local markets.
2. Stay put in a place at least 2-3 nights before moving.
city hopping was driven by the same pressure.  I got to see everything! . Wrong. it burns out the kids and you. Stay at a place a little longer so they develop a sense of routine, which calms them down.
3. Try to take 1 or 2 kids on a special “date” trip with mommy or daddy.
We often travel as a whole family entourage for chrismas and spring break, but through out the year, I try to take the kids on separate trips to match their time and interests. The younger ones could afford missing preschool for long stretches at a time. So, I took them to China with me for 6 weeks, slow pace of travel worked great. We covering Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Cambodia.  Then I didn’t want the older child to feel left out, took just him on a cruise to patagonia as observing animals/hiking in nature was his love, while if we had the little ones, we wouldn’t have been able to do as much.
4. Choose a hotel or cruise that’s kids friendly and also with family clientele.
A lodge or cruise sounds great, until you discover that your kid might be the only child among large groups of baby boomers. That puts too much pressure on the parents to constantly provide entertainment. It’s best, when on a cruise, your child finds a pal to play cards, chess or watch movie with.
5. Whenever it’s affordable, take a guide, sometimes they can double as sitter.
I’ve found this often possible on my travels. Most guides in China, Cambodia are so eager to help that they are willing to spend time to help out with the kids.  I had 3 kids with me at the Great Wall, the oldest one ran fast, while the baby was still in my arms. So the guide willingly took the hand of the middle child and helped her up and down those steep stairs. Same thing as in Cambodia, I hired a guide for the day, but was done with touring by lunch time, so the guide happily played games with the child back at the hotel. It’s often fun to see the kids learning different games from different cultures.
6. Favor houses and villas over hotel, favor places with a pool.
I always needed a microwave to heat up milk at 6 am.  Some times kids want to climb into my bed.  Hotels just don’t work as well with 3 kids.  Houses always! Pool is always a lifesaver!
———-
More tips on family travel can also be viewed on The Perrin Post, a blog by Condé Nast Travler director Wendy Perrin.
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April 12th, 2011

Behind the scenes at China’s largest seedbank

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

From the giant panda to the spotted owl, rare and endangered animals have long been effective symbols used to promote conservation around the world. Despite plants being the foundation of the food chain as well as consumers of carbon dioxide and producers of oxygen, they just don’t catch the human imagination the way that animals do.
That changed a bit at last year’s World Expo in Shanghai, thanks to the UK Pavilion, dubbed the “Seed Cathedral“. The sculpture displayed 60,000 different plant seeds at the end of long acrylic rods.
In addition to the stunning visual effect, it highlighted the global race against time to fill seedbanks around the world with seeds from crops and wild plants as an insurance policy against extinction.
Seedbanks are usually off-limits to the public – the world’s largest seedbank, the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, is located deep below a heavily fortified island in the Arctic Circle and is designed to survive nuclear war. Perhaps this is part of the reason that the Seed Cathedral was so well received – it was the most high profile seedbank event the world has seen.
One of the sources of seeds for the Seed Cathedral was China’s largest seedbank, which is located at the Kunming Institute of Botany in a building officially known as the Germplasm Bank of Wild Species. Earlier today we were lucky enough to be provided with a guided tour of the facilities that provided insights into humanity’s attempts to “backup” nature.
In 1999 Professor Wu Zhengyi, the most prolific botanist in modern China – he’s described or defined close to 1,700 new taxa – conceived a germplasm preservation facility in Yunnan for the conservation of biological resources. The resulting project was approved by the central government five years later in 2004.
Yunnan, home to China’s greatest biodiversity, was a natural choice for the germplasm, which includes China’s largest seedbank as well as a micropropagation unit, animal gene bank, DNA bank, microbial gene bank and nurseries.
China’s National Development and Reform Committee, the Chinese Academy of Sciences and the Yunnan provincial government were founding partners of the project, which had an initial total investment of 148 million yuan (US$22 million).
In 2005 a nationwide seed collecting program was launched by Kunming Institute of Botany in conjunction with educational and scientific partners throughout China.
In addition to its network of 300 seed collectors across China, the seedbank also cooperates with international partners including the UK’s Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and the World Agroforestry Center in Kenya.
The partners collaborate in technical training, staff exchanges and research programs. Kew Gardens also receives backup specimens from Kunming, in case of natural or manmade disasters. The seed bank has received hundreds of specimens from 18 countries.
The Germplasm Bank of Wild Species in Kunming
Why is cooperation between the world’s seedbanks important? Staff at Kunming’s seedbank told us that during the recent social upheaval in Egypt, the country’s seedbank suffered looting (for the jars, not the seeds), which led to the destruction of many valuable specimens. Luckily, the seedbank had sent backup specimens to its partners abroad.
Research is also a major component of the Kunming seedbank’s work. Recently it has been hard at work mapping the DNA of Chinese plants, as well investigating the effects of gamma-irradiation on the changes of Phospholipase D and plant membrane lipid composition, when time permits.
The Germplasm Bank facility has two wings: a south wing, which houses the seedbank, and a north wing which is where research and other functions are located. We spent an afternoon exploring the seedbank with Cai Jie of Kunming Institute of Botany, who showed us around and explained the process of cataloguing and preserving China’s flora.
Seeds come in all kinds of shapes and sizes
Whether they’re basketball-size coconuts or orchid seeds that can barely be seen by the naked eye, there is a standard procedure for when new seed specimens arrive. It is a long and labor-intensive process that ends in dried seeds being stored in high-tech subterranean freezers.
The first stop for any new arrival to the seed bank is a large room where specimens are identified, registered and prepared to move on to the cleaning stage. Cleaning involves not only removing any random dirt or debris from the specimen, but also removing seeds from whatever packaging nature has used to encase and protect them. Simple tools such as sifters as well as more complex seed separators help lab technicians do their job as quickly as possible.
Most seeds require a substantial amount of labor to be cleaned, but specimens of some seeds, such as those of the poplar tree, can be extremely difficult to clean, requiring as many as three people working for one week to get the job done.
Specimens awaiting cleaning are stored in a special “dry room” connected to the cleaning room by an airlock straight out of 2001: A Space Odyssey. The dry room is filled with paper and cotton bags filled with specimens from around China and the world – we also saw some from Russia and Africa. Plastic bags are not used for seed storage because they do not allow the seeds to “breathe”.
After cleaning, seeds are taken to be X-rayed by technicians who check for hollow or damaged seeds. The seeds then travel to a second dry room where they are meticulously counted, weighed and separated into an “A” group that is given to third parties, germinated or used in research, and a “B” group which goes on to frozen storage. In theory, the A group is kept as small as possible, and can be replenished from the larger B group over time as needed.
Seeds readied for storage are placed in small airtight glass vials with plastic lids and then stored in large airtight glass jars. A small purple silica gel packet is placed inside each vial with the seeds – should the integrity of the cap be compromised, the gel will turn pink.
As a security precaution, each vial is only labeled with a scannable bar code, to protect the seeds, many of which are rare and valuable. In addition to this measure, there is ample video surveillance in the seed bank to deter any would-be seed thieves.
By the time the seeds have been processed in the second dry room, their oil and moisture content will have dropped to two to seven percent. Finally, they are ready to head underground.
After being notified that we would not be allowed to take photos of the freezer room, we took an elevator two stories underground to another airlock, which led us into a slightly chilly room with five large freezer doors and a couple dozen technicians in winter coats handling specimens at their work stations.
We could not enter the freezers, but we were able to look inside through windows on the doors. Each freezer was packed full of stainless steel shelves on tracks that could be moved laterally by turning a large wheel mounted on the side of each shelf. All told, there is 190 square meters of freezer space down there – enough to hold 170,000 seed specimens.
Given the number of specimens that we saw waiting to be processed, there is not much doubt that more freezer space will eventually be needed.
The elevator returned us to ground level, where warm sunshine was flooding in through large windows.
Visiting a seedbank was an interesting experience, but the fact that humanity has recently taken to building seedbanks around the world is a reminder that as a species, we have the power to destroy many, or all of the plant species around us if we so choose. Seedbanks are good insurance against the threat of extinction, but like insurance policies, it is best to never need to use them.
Seed Cathedral image: Popular Science
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April 9th, 2011

Tsalam – The Ancient Salt Route

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

The following is an introduction to Jeff Fuchs’ Tea and Mountain Journals, a blog by explorer, photographer and writer Jeff Fuchs.  Jeff is the 2011 recipient of WildChina’s Explorer Grant.  He and friend Michael Kleinwort are currently traveling through unknown portions of the Tsalam route in Qinghai.

Below is an announcement about their journey…

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The Route of White Gold

When: May, 2011

Who: Jeff Fuchs, Michael Kleinwort

Where: Southern Qinghai (Amdo)

One of the ancient world’s great and unheralded trade routes was the eastern Himalayas’ Tsalam, or Salt Road. Known to many Tibetans as “The route of white gold”, much of its desiccated remains rest at close to 4 km in the sky upon the eastern Himalayan Plateau.

Traversing some of the planet’s most remote and daunting terrain, the Tsalam passed through the snowy homeland of the fierce Golok nomads, notorious wolf packs and beneath the sacred Amye Maqen mountain range of southern Qinghai province (Amdo). Largely forgotten it remains culturally, historically and geographically one of the least documented portions on earth. The memories of a few traders carry on its almost fabled tale.

The route itself has never before been acknowledged (nor travelled) by westerners, and much like the Tea Horse Road, the last remaining traders who traveled its length are passing away and with them too, the memories of what for many was the only access path into the daunting nomadic lands.

Leading the expedition and transcribing the tale of Tsalam will be myself, with English entrepreneur and endurance athlete Michael Kleinwort joining me. Along with local nomadic guides and the odd mule, our “0 carbon footprint team” will attempt to travel the most isolated and unknown portion of the route – a remote nomadic portion from Honkor to the Maqu area.

The expedition in May of 2011 will be done entirely by foot and will access many of the last nomadic traders to document their precious recollections of travel along the Tsalam. The expedition is another of the ancient Himalayan trade routes I hope to re-expose to some light. Articles in select publications will appear upon completion of the journey.

Jeff Fuchs

Lubden & Michael Kleinwort

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Image: Jeff Fuchs

 

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April 8th, 2011

Wildlife tourism & visitor expectations in Changqing: Balancing the needs between people & animals

By: Mei | Categories: Culture, News You Can Use

‘Ah, we were so close today’.  After 11 days of hiking in Changqing National Nature Reserve our American visitor, Chris, finally got to see a wild giant panda, but it was very fleeting.  With only a blurry photo through thick bamboo as a record, it almost doesn’t count for Chris.  Wildlife watching and photography is a passion for Chris and he has spent months at a time travelling to all corners of the globe in search of some of the world’s most iconic and, sometimes endangered, animals; tigers in India, jaguars in Nicaragua, mountain lions in the United States.  While his time here has been sometimes difficult and trying, Chris is not interested in getting his photo from going to a breeding centre or zoo.  He is after the real deal; a wild panda not habituated, not released, not herded towards the paying ‘customer’, not radio collared / micro-chipped.  The effort and struggle is part of the lure.

The stories that I have been told are that the likelihood of spotting wild pandas in Changqing is pretty good, despite their well-known elusiveness.  The photos on display in Changqing’s recently opened Visitor’s Information Centre confirm this, indicating that, not only are sightings seemingly common, but that a very close encounter with them is possible.  As we head back to Huayang, tired and just a little frustrated after being so close, yet so far, we discuss the possible reasons behind our lack of success and what this means for tourism based around seeing pandas.

Are there less pandas this year? Changqing was one of the first nature reserves established in the Qinling Mountains back in 1995.  Research concluded that the area had the highest density of pandas in the world.  Since then, the government has continued its efforts in conserving panda habitat, establishing a network of connected reserves across the Qinling Mountains.  We wonder whether the pandas are beginning to spread out a little as they discover secure habitat in the adjacent reserves.  While obviously this is a positive outcome for pandas, it might mean our task of finding pandas may be a little more difficult.

Are we looking in the right areas? Changqing, while covering over 30,000ha, only allows tourists into certain areas.  When on a specialised wildlife encounter tour, visitors are taken to either Baiyangping or Daping, which are located within the reserve’s designated core habitat area.  Access is via old logging tracks, with only two along the valley bottoms vehicle accessible.  The smaller valleys branching higher up into the mountains are steeper and the former logging tracks have been allowed to regenerate.  Hiking is required into these areas while accessing the ridges requires finding your own way up (following your guide’s lead, of course).

For the majority of our time, we stick to the valleys based on the guides’ previous experience in finding pandas at this time of year.  While there is plenty of evidence to suggest pandas have been low down in the valleys, all the signs (panda poo, scratch and scent marks, broken bamboo and footprints in the mud and snow) appear to be at least a week old.  With a warmer than usual winter and a lack of a decent snowpack, the pandas seem to have headed for the ridges a little earlier this year in preparation for the upcoming mating season.  On Chris’ 11th day in the reserve that is where we head and it is here we have our closest encounter.  But, getting up the steep and sometimes slippery slopes requires a good level of fitness and is not feasible for some visitors.

Are the pandas avoiding us? The trails we are hiking along are rather overgrown with bamboo and we sometimes have trouble navigating our way through without making some noise.  For an animal that tries to avoid contact with other pandas for most of the year (preferring to save energy due to their poor diet and communicate through more indirect ways such as scent-marking) creating excessive noise is a concern.  Also, as our guide Jack informs us, the older pandas of Changqing have been somewhat habituated to humans through the previous research of Professor Pan Wenshi of Peking University.  However, research involving direct contact with pandas ceased years ago, with current research in Changqing utilising infrared motion-sensing cameras (the use of radio-collars has been banned for all first-grade protected animals in China).  Thus, there are likely to be less pandas that are ‘used’ to humans in the future, perhaps decreasing with it the possibility of human interactions with wild pandas.

With all this running through my head, I wonder whether there are ways we can improve the probability of seeing pandas in the wild.  Can it be done without compromising their protection and how important is it that visitors find their panda?  These are not easy questions to answer and they often form the centre of debate surrounding the benefits and impacts of wildlife tourism.  While some conservationists argue that wildlife tourism can negatively affect wildlife population dynamics, their behaviour and habitat, others contend that, if managed appropriately, it can make important contributions to biodiversity conservation.  The United Nations Environment Programme is just one of many organisations that have recognised these benefits, highlighting wildlife tourism’s potential to raise awareness of the animals observed and their habitat, to create revenues for conservation and to bring jobs and economic opportunities for local communities.  It is particularly significant as many iconic wildlife are located in rural areas of developing countries, some of poorest regions of the world with pressures to exploit the surrounding natural resources.

Changqing and the village of Huayang are certainly showing signs that they are benefitting from the opportunities that increased tourism to the area is bringing.  The presence of wildlife, in particular pandas, is a major motivation in tourists coming here.  But, as highlighted above, finding pandas in the wild is no easy task.  Having only been discovered by the outside world in 1869, they have a history of keeping to themselves.  Our experience over the past week has me wondering whether we should be lowering our expectations on seeing a panda in the wild and what this would mean for tourism to places such as Changqing.  Wildlife tourism needs to be both sustainable in terms of maintaining the animal populations and their habitat but also maintaining the tourist industry. If the tourist experience does not live up to expectations, it has the potential to affect visitor numbers, putting at risk the associated development and conservation outcomes.

While sighting a panda was the aim, our ventures into the reserve over the preceding week had us the fortune of at least knowing we were in the company of pandas.  On the trail of a fast-movingyoung panda (too fast for us to keep up across such tricky terrain) having discovered its fresh pawprints, we hear its mother call out to it, who had separated to feed nearby.  Another day, we hear two males involved in a heated discussion as to who should have the chance to mate with the nearby female.  These were amazing moments, although I’m sure a face-to-face encounter would surpass those.  But, in being out in the reserve on the trail of pandas, I feel as though we have learnt a lot about pandas, how they interact with each other, how they move about their habitat, how difficult their habitat is to negotiate etc., something that a visit to a breeding centre or zoo is unlikely to provide.

In addition, while pandas are the main drawcard, time spent at Changqing has many visitors coming away with a much greater appreciation for the many other wonderful animals that call Changqing home.  Our time spent hiking in the reserve has us spotting numerous small groups of golden pheasants, a particularly colourful sight.  An old male golden takin was also making a regular appearance having seemingly set himself up around our access road.  As a result, we were becoming accustomed to his daily routine of positioning himself across the river in the morning before making his way to the ridge on the opposite side in the late afternoon.  We were also fortunate enough to sight a few groups of golden monkeys during our hikes.  They’re a little easier spot then the solitary panda, tending to make large noisy movements while travelling from tree to tree.  Their constant chatter among themselves is also a giveaway to their presence, while they are also happy enough to sit relatively still in a tree nearby, happy in the knowledge that we’re no threat to them on the ground.

Another highlight was the occasional glimpses of predatory birds; a fish owl roosting in a distant tree, a northern goshawk circling high above.  On one occasion we disturbed what appeared to be a very large bird of prey.  It quickly flew off with us barely getting a glimpse of it.  But, from what we did see, we could tell it was huge.  We set off on the possibility of finding what had it in the area and we were lucky enough to find its rather recent kill, a goral.  A goral is no small mammal, being approximately 25-40kg and 80-130cm in length so this bird had done well to bring it down.  We spot is claw marks in the snow and also its wing marks, a beautiful streak.  Based on this, we guess that what killed this goral and what we very quickly saw was a golden eagle, quite a rare sighting.

Thus, while we have not been successful in our pursuit in getting our dream panda encounter, the time spent searching, hiking in the snow, being out in nature, seeing other animals is still an amazing experience.  I can understand, though, that this may be a small consolation to those who have travelled halfway around the world with their heart set on sighting a wild panda.  For those tourists in which a sighting and photo opportunity will make or break their trip, I would suggest a visit to one of the panda breeding centres or zoos is included in their itinerary as a back-up.

But, if you want to get back to nature, to really get an understanding and appreciation of the environment the pandas and some many other animals inhabit, then Changqing will not leave you disappointed.  While the guides here make every effort to try and find a panda for you, sometimes the pandas just don’t want to find you!

Chris has not been deterred and is currently planning on returning to Changqing to again seek out his panda next winter in December or January.

All Images: Christopher S.

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Wayne Purcell is the Australian Youth Ambassador for Development at the Changqing Nature Reserve of the Giant Panda.

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