Articles by Anita

Anita Narayan

If you’ll be in the New York City area on March 1, don’t miss the reception for “China’s Great Wall: The Forgotten Story,” a series of large-scale, historically based photos of the Great Wall, being held at the Rockefeller Brothers Fund office from 6:00 to 9:00 pm (RSVP by Feb. 22).

This project is a collaboration between Jonathan Ball, a California-based photographer, and David Spindler, one of the world’s leading authorities on Great Wall history and a member of WildChina’s expert network. The event will include a conversation moderated by Christopher Phillips, a curator at the International Center of Photography and co-author of a recently published book on contemporary Chinese photography and video.

China's Great Wall: The Forgotten Story

WildChina recently interviewed David and Jonathan to learn more about their photo project:

WildChina (WCT): Where did the idea for the Forgotten Wall project come from?

David Spindler (DS): Jonathan and I were both living in Beijing in late 2006 and we started talking about how we could do a project combining his photography and my work on Great Wall history. As we started to think about our angle, the idea of photographing Great Wall battle sites from the points of view of raiders or defenders, on the anniversary of the battles and at the same time of day as the battles, came to us quite soon.

WCT: What skills and background did each of you bring to this project?

DS: I’m a historian who focuses on the Great Wall. I do my research in libraries all over the world and in the field. During the spring and fall, I spend a lot of time speaking to travel or study-abroad groups about this history. In this project, I was interested in applying what I had learned in a powerful, easily absorbed media—in this case, photography.

Jonathan Ball (JB): I’ve been a photographer nearly as long as I can remember – since I was about 11 years old. I have done many different kinds of photographic work over the years. My projects are varied; they include landscape work, portraiture, looser “slice of life” photos, building panoramic and other unusual pinhole cameras … I love new challenges and figuring out ways to solve them – this project provided them in spades, not least of which were the challenges of producing and displaying such large photographs.

WCT: What do you want to accomplish with this project?

DS: One of our goals is to bring the viewer back to the time and place of the battles, and to see them from the vantage point of a participant. Because of the methodology we’ve used, the light and vegetation in the images are nearly the same as what someone would have seen on the original battlefield. Because of the enormous size of the subject, we’ve made extremely large prints. We hope this makes it easier for viewers to more easily experience the time and place of the original events in a direct and powerful manner.

JB: I share the goals David states. Another aim of ours has been to produce a series of Great Wall photographs that is unlike the vast majority of Great Wall photos that have already been made. We have done this two ways: first, by underpinning the project with a rigorous historical approach that drove our decisions about what to photograph and when; and second, by making photographs that capture the points of view of participants in the battles that took place at the sites we depict.

The photographs in this project feature the landscape as much as they feature the Wall; they don’t simply romanticize the Wall. It’s an important contribution both to Great Wall scholarship and to fine art photography.

WCT: How did you first get interested in the Great Wall?

DS: My interest in Great Wall history stems from a general interest in history, in discovery and research and in endurance sports. My field and library research activities are an excellent way to satisfy these interests.

WCT: What are the key things a first-time visitor to the Great Wall should know?

DS: Probably the most important thing to keep in mind is that its sole purpose was defensive and there are many instances where the wall was a helpful part of successful defenses against Mongol attacks. Many of the myths in wide circulation have come about because people see a small section of wall and quickly extrapolate, using unfounded assumptions. It’s also important to keep in mind what we don’t know—that there’s no reliable figure for the overall length of the various Great Walls or even a consensus definition of what a Great Wall is. Great Wall Studies, if it’s even proper to use the word, is a field still in gestation. There is not a single academic anywhere in the world who focuses on this topic.

WCT: What/where is your favorite Great Wall spot?

DS: I dont have a personal favorite. When I’m speaking to groups in the field, I think it’s important to visit spots that are historically significant, visually appealing, and free of heavy human traffic. Jinshanling fits these requirements quite nicely.

WCT: What if people like your work from this project so much they would like to take it home with them?

DS: Collectors may acquire signed limited editions of the prints and captions – and six of the images in the series are available as 360-degree panoramas mounted in a circular frame that literally surround the viewer.

For more information about “China’s Great Wall: The Forgotten Story,” please contact Jonathan Ball or David Spindler.

For those of us who’ve spent years studying China, Orville Schell is a very familiar name. His books, like The China Reader: The Reform Era, are widely read by students and policymakers alike, and his talks on behalf of the Asia Society’s China Green project are attended by many with an interest in China’s environmental issues.

So we were all thrilled when Orville, who has been to China countless times, not only chose to travel with WildChina to study the effect of climate change on glaciers, but also provided us with rave reviews about his trip to Lijiang and Shangri-La.

Here, in his own words, Orville explains what he sees as the WildChina difference:

“Why choose WildChina? Well, I think WildChina is quite skilled at sculpting trips for people who have specific interests. So, if in fact you’re a bird watcher, a glacier watcher, a river watcher, a minorities watcher – whatever your poison is, they seem to have the ability to highlight that.

I haven’t done many trips like this – but to go to a place like Yunnan and in a week to see a lot, you really do need someone to organize it. You need drivers who know what they’re doing, and cars and land rovers that can go on very rough roads and over landslides.

You want to be with people who you trust, not some crazy cab driver you’ve never met. So it was reassuring to have good drivers, good guides, and to be able to stop in at local people’s houses that these guides knew…and we had a Tibetan guide and a Chinese guide – both very familiar with the area and extremely fun to be around and very much a part of our group – not bored people who couldn’t wait to get off the bus and get everybody back on the plane…and that, I think, made the trip incomparably more meaningful and interesting for us.

I’m not a big tour joiner, frankly, and that would probably be a good reason to have WildChina organize your trips so that it wouldn’t be like a tour. It would be more things you wanted to do, not you fitting into their tour—but them making the tour fit your needs.”

Many thanks to Orville for these kind words! Be sure to view the video on our home page for stunning footage captured during Orville’s trip to Yunnan.

China has 38 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, a designation that can sometimes be both a blessing and a curse to these cultural and natural areas due to the influx of tourists. So how can we ensure responsible travel in these sites? WildChina Founder Mei Zhang and The Nature Conservancy (TNC)’s Lulu Zhou tackled this issue on air today during Let’s Travel!, a weekly, global radio talk show hosted by New York-based Susan Raphael.  

First Bend of Yangtze River, Yunnan

First Bend of Yangtze River, Yunnan

Lulu, who oversees sustainable tourism and environmental education projects in Yunnan’s Three Parallel Rivers World Heritage Site, pointed out a major difference between protected areas  in the U.S. and China: whereas in the U.S., no communities reside inside national parks, in China, it’s a different story. In the Three Parallel Rivers area (named after a mountainous region in southwest China where three of Asia’s mightiest rivers, the Yangtze, Mekong and Salween, run parallel), almost 300,000 people reside in the site, with 36,000 people within the core zone. Since relocation of these communities isn’t an option, it’s key to engage the communities themselves in conservation work to help preserve the site. 

Mei agreed, noting that a change in mindset and an education process are required. At WildChina, we hire and train local guides for our journeys, who benefit directly by providing high-end, sustainable travel services. This training allows us to practice green travel, particularly in hiking trips – for instance, we emphasize responsible outdoor practices, such as Leave No Trace, where travelers “pack it in, pack it out.”

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You’ve read our blog – now hear us on the radio! On Thursday, Oct. 22, from 12:00 – 1:00 pm EST in the U.S., tune into Let’s Travel!, a weekly, global radio talk show hosted by New York-based Susan Raphael (visit NY Talk Radio.net for live streaming). This week’s show features WildChina Founder Mei Zhang and The Nature Conservancy’s Lulu Zhou on the topic of responsible travel in China, with discussion on some of our favorite areas: Yunnan and Sichuan.

Let’s Travel! focuses on the world of travel and culture. Through a partnership with the United Nations Foundation’s World Heritage Alliance, which supports World Heritage conservation and sustainable tourism, Let’s Travel! broadcasts a monthly segment on World Heritage.

There will be an encore broadcast of the show on Saturday, Oct. 24 at 6:00 pm EST. Check back here for the podcast!

Climate change often seems like an abstract concept to many of us. But as renowned China scholar Orville Schell writes in “The Thaw at the Roof of the World,” his recent New York Times op-ed, the effects of global warming can be clearly seen in a part of China close to WildChina’s heart: Yunnan province in the southwest.

WildChina recently ran a trip for Orville and a few of his friends from the Asia Society to Yunnan and the Tibetan Plateau so that they could examine these environmental changes up close. As he writes, most people visit Yunnan’s majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain for the beautiful views — unaware that the mountain’s Baishui Glacier No. 1 has receded 830 feet over the last 20 years due to climate change. While in the short run, the melting of the glacier will result in plenty of water, in the long run, it will in fact result in water scarcity – a serious issue, given that the glaciers on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain feed water into the uppear reaches of the Yangtze River, a major water resource for much of China.

Given that water resources are already dwindling worldwide, it’s no wonder that conservationists are drawing more and more attention to the pressing need to solve the climate change problem.  It certainly becomes much less abstract when you think about the people and lives that will be hugely affected, for the worse, by the environmental changes.

As Beijing continues to prepare for the 60th Anniversary of the People’s Republic of China on Oct. 1 and the weeklong National Holiday, we are receiving new updates on closures during this period:

  • The Forbidden City will be closed from Sept. 30 to Oct. 1.
  • On Oct. 1, from 9:30 am to 12:30 pm, the Beijing Capital Airport will cancel all domestic flights, and international flights will be postponed to 12:50 pm.
  • From now until Oct. 8, the Tibet Tourism Bureau in Beijing will stop issuing the Tibet travel permit, which is required to enter Tibet. WildChina is working with our local partner in Tibet to remain updated on this matter.

Need more information? Email us at info@wildchina.com.

You’ve bought your trip, plane tickets are booked, and you’ve saved up your vacation days. Then, a month or two before the trip, you find out it’s been cancelled because there aren’t enough travelers. What do you do?

The New York Times’ prolific travel writer, Michelle Higgins, has some interesting tips. Among her helpful suggestions: ask questions to see how likely it is that the trip will depart; know the operator’s cancellation policy; and wait to buy your airline tickets.

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China’s official news agency, Xinhua, is reporting a death toll of 140 people following unrest in Urumqi, capital of northwest China’s Xinjiang province. WildChina is working with our local partners to obtain the latest updates, and in the meantime, advises travelers to postpone any upcoming plans to travel to this region. For immediate questions and contingency plans, please contact your WildChina travel consultant.

As is obvious from our previous posts about Yunnan, we at WildChina can’t say enough about this beautifully diverse southwestern province. Not only do we regularly run tours to the area, but we also love reading about the eye-opening experiences of other travelers.

Latest case in point: Stan Sesser of the Wall Street Journal has just written a piece, “Treasures Without Tourists,” in which he describes “one of the most spectacular sights on earth:” the Yuanyang rice terraces. One of three spots in Yunnan being considered for UNESCO’s World Heritage Site designation (along with Maotian Mountain National Geopark and Dali Old Town), these rice paddies were cultivated along a mountain range by the ethnic Hani minority. A photographer’s dream, the terraces are a breathtaking sight, particularly when the sun reflects off the water-filled paddies.

But whether the area can stay a “treasure without tourists” remains to be seen. While World Heritage designation can be a bit of a curse, often leading to rapid over-development and commercialization, for Yuanyang it would also be a blessing: more funds to preserve Hani culture and provide educational opportunities for their youth.

Yunnan continues to be an inspiration for interesting commentary, with National Geographic’s May 2009 issue featuring a piece on Shangri-la (Zhongdian). Mark Jenkins explores this “complicated” and “confounding” Tibetan town in southwest China and the competing visions for its future. Will tourism and development invariably lead this area to lose all of its mythical and spiritual qualities?

As Jenkins notes, “tourism saved the place” after the Chinese government banned commercial logging in 1998; but that, in turn, has led to the commercialization of Tibetan culture. This trend — seen in many other hidden gems in the developing world — is certainly troubling. But as travelers, that doesn’t automatically mean we should stop visiting such places, which still have a lot to teach us about traditional lifestyles and choices.

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