Articles by Heather.Graham

nature reserve in Sichuan

I have now entered my final week of work for Changqing Reserve. Not surprisingly, I am feeling a mixture of emotions leaving the place that has become home for me for some time now: Firstly sadness at leaving behind the Reserve, the community of Huayang that has freely welcomed me, my new Chinese friends, the simple way of life, the fresh air, long walks, local food and rice paddy viewed runs. However, I also leave with excitement about the next chapter in my life and more importantly hope for sections of China’s spectacular environment that have ‘survived’ a history of thousands of years, and are now being managed as reserves.

Huayang Town, Shaanxi Province

Huayang Town, Shaanxi Province

Upon reflection of this year it really struck me that the achievements, which have been made were due to successful co-operations. For example, the development of the Eco-tourism Action Plan, my main project, was instigated and funded by WWF China, managed by myself (a volunteer from Australia), developed by a team of local Changqing staff members, and the resultant actions based upon recommendations made by all levels of staff, community members, scientists, international experts, local government and previous volunteers.  Likewise, the Reserve’s infrared cameras (as mentioned in a previous blog) are the result of a co-operation between Changqing National Nature Reserve, Dr Dajun Wang from Peking University, Shan Shui Conservation Centre and Conservation International. However, going back a step, perhaps the most successful example of co-operation that I have heard about here has been the establishment of Changqing Reserve. So, at the risk of finishing my series of blogs with what perhaps I should have started them with, I thought I would share with you the history of Changqing National Nature Reserve (CNNR), as I have heard it, threw local verbal accounts, and bits and pieces of information I have gathered during my time here…

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Bamboo newly broken by a Giant Panda, Changqing Reserve

Bamboo newly broken by a Giant Panda, Changqing Reserve

It’s happened!! After months of learning about Giant Pandas, seeing videos about them, writing blogs about them, and constructing an Action Plan to minimise the impact of tourism to them – I have seen a Giant Panda in the wild!!!  Even now, nine days after this experience, I am still smiling when I think about it. Being winter and therefore having an increased opportunity to see them, my former manager, Mr Shi Jian, organised a car for me to spend a few days with one of our best trackers, Zhang Yongwen, in Changqing Reserve.

It is estimated that Changqing National Nature Reserve has approximately 100 pandas within our reserve boundaries. During June to September each year, the majority of these live in the high mountains, descending to the valleys for the colder months. According to Zhang Yongwen, due to their need to conserve energy, Pandas in Changqing often meander around existing tracks such as former logging roads, and Takin tracks. This means, that when tracking pandas in Changqing you walk along these valley tracks, and alongside rivers in search of signs that pandas have been nearby recently. Signs include freshly broken bamboo, a trail of fresh scats and if you’re really lucky the sound of bamboo breaking in the distance. However, as pandas meander off the tracks to find nice places to sit, chew bamboo and sleep – once you think you’re close to one, you often find yourself scrambling hand and foot up steep bamboo covered hills. Some may not like this side of tracking, but not me, I love it! It makes me feel alive, every scratch and bruise making me more determined, heart pumping loudly (‘will I see a panda this time’), it makes me feel like David Attenborough or a BBC cameraman!

Fresh Panda scat, Changqing Reserve

Fresh Panda scat, Changqing Reserve

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Photo of Giant Panda taken in Changqing Reserve by one of the infrared cameras

Photo of Giant Panda taken in Changqing Reserve by one of the infrared cameras

Over the Christmas and New Years period I was blessed to have two of my good friends from back home come to China to visit me, and also see what it was about this country that had me raving. Not surprisingly, as part of the visit, they both wanted to see where I had been living and working for the previous 10 months. I was also keen to share with them a glimpse of rural China, and a chance for them to see the nature reserve. So two days of animal tracking in Changqing National Nature Reserve was included in the itinerary!

We had a fabulous time following one of our most experienced guides here Mr Xiang, a known panda expert – who has eyes like a hawk. As mentioned in one of my previous blogs, while very cold, winter here is also a great time to visit our reserve due to an increased chance to see some animals who have come further down the mountain for the cold weather. Mr Xiang picked up the slightest movements from hundreds of meters away, and through following animal scats, footprints in the snow, sound and movements we ended up seeing numerous animals, including two Internationally Endangered animals: the Golden Takin (Budorcas taxicolor bedfordi) and Golden Monkey (Rhinopithecus roxellana qinlingenis) and one Internationally Critically Endangered bird, the Crested Ibis (Nipponia nippon).

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This week has been a somewhat inspiring one for me from a professional perspective. As I think I have mentioned in a previous blog, China often gets bad international publicity when it comes to their environmental decisions and practices. I am not saying that this publicity is unfounded nor unwarranted, but rather that ‘good news stories’ about China just seem to be lacking in the international arena.

Changqing Staff who attended training

Changqing Staff who attended training

This week, Changqing National Nature Reserve, the reserve that I am working for, held a training program for its field staff and also a small number of its office staff. The focus of the training was ‘Eco-tourism’, and it was supported financially by WWF. The training was one of the priority actions that came out of Changqing’s recent ‘Ecotourism Action Plan’, a plan that focuses upon what Changqing Administrative Bureau hope to achieve in the coming three to five years.

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Entrance to Shaolin Temple tourist site, Henan

Entrance to Shaolin Temple tourist site, Henan

Kung fu is synonymous with China. Not unlike giant pandas, dumplings, Mao, The Great Wall and Qingdao beer … eventually, it will creep into conversation. Perhaps this has become even more the case since 2008, when the DreamWorks animation ‘Kung Fu Panda’ was released (which I confess to seeing at the movies and also watching numerous times on DVD after receiving it as a birthday present!).

With only a few days to travel on my recent holiday break, and having already travelled extensively throughout China, I decided to head northwest into Henan Province, to explore the home of Kung Fu.

Almost immediately after my arrival, I felt that Henan was different from some of its richer coastal neighbours. As I only spent a few short days in Henan I don’t want to make too many assumptions, however living here appeared to be ‘harder’. Signs of this could be seen from my bus and train windows, with heavy industry causing significant air pollution, agriculture (in sometimes difficult conditions) being the main form of employment and a visible poverty. I do want to be quick to point out though, that the people, just like the rest of China, were really lovely and friendly, and the food – just as delicious!

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First snow for the season, Huayang

First snow for the season, Huayang

Winter has arrived! Well… according to the Chinese calendar that is. If following our Gregorian Calender we still have another 13 days to go…however, here in the Qinling Mountains, I have no doubt the weather has chosen to go by the Chinese calendar!! Last Wednesday it started snowing here for the first time this season and continued throughout the night. As mentioned below in Alex’s article ‘North China is Hit by Blizzard’ (Nov 11), snow that heavy is apparently an unusual occurrence this early in the year. I awoke to find a winter wonderland – everything covered in a few inches of snow. Just spectacular!

The giant pandas in Changqing have obviously noticed the change in seasons also. There have been sightings of two different giant pandas by our staff in the last couple of weeks, signalling that they have started to descend to the valleys for the cold weather. During June to September each year, the majority of our 100 strong panda population live in the high mountains. In the high mountains of Changqing Reserve, a small type of arrow bamboo is present, Fargesia qinlingensis. The pandas feed on the shoots of this species, occasionally having some cane and leaf also. Seeing giant pandas during this time is very difficult for both staff and visitors to the Reserve. This is not only because they are located high in the mountains, but also because the arrow bamboo leaves are very small and dense, making visibility difficult. Even if a panda was happily eating or sleeping only 10 meters away, it may be difficult to find!

Giant Panda, Changqing National Nature Reserve (photo taken by Zhao Naxun)

Giant Panda, Changqing National Nature Reserve (photo taken by Zhao Naxun)

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As an environmentalist I feel as though I am continually reading and hearing ‘bad news’ environmental stories (particularly about China!), which over time can erode at the optimism and hope we need to be effective. After all, historically it has been optimists that have changed the world, certainly not pessimists. So I thought in this blog, I would share with you a local good news environmental story. It’s about the Crested Ibis (Nipponia nippon).

Crested Ibis in Huayang (photographer Zhang Yongwen)

Crested Ibis in Huayang (photographer Zhang Yongwen)

The Crested Ibis is a beautiful, large, white-plumaged ibis of pine forests, formally found throughout Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Russia and much of China However, by the 1960s and 1970s it was believed to be extinct, with no sightings of the bird for many years. This concerned numerous Chinese scientists, and as a result, the Forestry Protection Department of the Chinese Government assembled a team, led by Liu Yinzheng. This team spent years searching ideal Crested Ibis habitat throughout China. In 1981, their hard work payed off when Liu Yinzheng and his team arrived in Yangxian, the county closest to Changqing Reserve, and the location of Changqing Reserve Administrative Bureau’s main office. Here he and the team found seven remaining Crested Ibis individuals. While extremely exciting, with only seven individuals discovered, their job was still far from complete.

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Upon reflection, as a ‘city girl’, I guess I never thought much about where my food came from. I mean, don’t get me wrong, I knew apples grew on trees, and a pumpkin had to be way too heavy for that, so most likely grew on a vine … and I even had a mini (albeit fairly unsuccessful) veggie patch in my inner-city Melbourne share house. In fact, to be completely honest, friends of mine back home would probably testify that I investigate the origin of my food more than most, having chosen long ago the life of a ‘pescetarian’ (seafood eating vegetarian) for ethical reasons. However, my knowledge, until now, has been intellectual rather than experience based.

Autumn in Huayang, Shaanxi

Autumn in Huayang, Shaanxi

Living, working and exercising in the town of Huayang has allowed me to watch my dinner grow before my very eyes. I have seen the full process, from seed to harvest of some of my favourite vegetables and grains – including eggplants, corn, pumpkin, beans, carrots, rice and wheat to name just a few. It has had a profound affect upon me, and while saying it is a spiritual experience may be taking it too far, at times it has certainly felt like it.  In the cities of the ‘wealthy west’ so often we fill our days and lives with the pursuit of meaningless things … and to watch farmers at work and vegetables slowly growing through the seasons is a nice reminder of our life sustaining needs and the hard work and reliance upon the elements that is required to obtain these necessities.

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A deadly cocktail of sun, sand, rainforests, tropical fruits, mojitos, motorbikes, minority villages and street food has distracted me from writing my fourth blog … No, I’m not talking about the Hawaii or even Bali – believe it or not, still China! Hainan Island to be precise.

Ri Yue Wan, Eastern Coast, Hainan

Ri Yue Wan, Eastern Coast, Hainan

The staff at Changqing Reserve work weekends, and the vast majority of them are living away from their families. This means that each month we work approximately three weeks ‘on’ and then get a week ‘off’. So after the Golden Week concluded we all took off – most to see their families, however me to see more of China. I LOVE travelling around China … its quite easily one of my favourite things in the world to do. Every trip is a new and exciting experience. In fact, it recently occurred to me that I threw out expectations on these mini-breaks long ago and now just eagerly await adventure. As a UK friend of mine said recently in his travel blog No matter where you are, what you’re doing, who you’re with, there’s this feeling that something specials going to happen. It’s hard to explain but visit and you’ll see for yourselves. There is nowhere quite like China.”

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I am writing this blog from my room, watching the faint drops of rain drizzle down my window. Today is the last day of the Golden Week holiday, which has turned out not to be as crazy busy for Changqing Reserve as I, and others here had anticipated. While we are not certain of the reason for this, think it is probably a combination of factors including this year’s weather being a little cooler than previous ones, and many choosing to stay home for the 60th Anniversary National Day Parade.

Sun Jian raises the Chinese Flag for National Day

Sun Jian raises the Chinese Flag for National Day

I spent much of the 60th Anniversary sitting around a television with Changqing colleagues watching the parade* together, while drinking green tea and snacking on peanuts, sunflower seeds and phoenix claws. Well, technically speaking I didn’t partake in the delicacy of phoenix claws (cold chickens feet!), being a vegetarian I stuck to the other snacks. Then at night there was a big bonfire held for the community and visitors – with lots of traditional dances and songs performed. During the parade telecast my colleagues and friend’s comments made me realise how patriotic Chinese people are compared to my experience of Australians. I spent a couple of days pondering this thought, and wondered if it were a difference in schooling, media coverage, critical thought, or perhaps purely just the way in which it is expressed. After all, while at home it’s expected that politicians, and patriotic displays will be made fun of, if anybody from another country is to join in and make fun of ‘us’ – most would argue to the death to verbally defend their country.

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