On WildChina journeys in Tibet and Tibetan areas of Qinghai, Yunnan and Sichuan provinces, many of our clients experience foods and beverages made from yak meat and yak milk for the first time in their lives.

Reactions vary to such fare as sour yak milk cheese, salty yak butter tea and fried yak jerky, but are generally positive. Regardless of  your palate’s reaction to yak products, it is not difficult to see why such hearty foods are suited to the region’s high-altitude conditions, where few other animals can thrive.

The yak plays a vital role for many Tibetan communities living high in the Himalayas because growing seasons are too short for most crops and the weather too harsh for many other domestic animals. Shaggy yaks graze on alpine grasses throughout the warmer times of the year to prepare for the region’s long, cold winters.

Though we enjoy classic yak dishes we were also pleasantly surprised last year when we learned about an ethnic Tibetan family in northern Yunnan that is putting yak milk to innovative use and boosting local herders’ incomes in the process by making Western-style artisan cheeses and butter with yak milk.

Qizhu Qilin and Wang Zhenying founded the Meixiang Cheese Company in 2003 in Langdu Village, Yunnan, which lies tucked amid remote 4,000-meter peaks near the Sichuan border, a three-hour drive north of the Shangri-La old town.

The village’s economy has historically been mostly subsistence-based, and centered around yak herding. Villagers did venture out of the mountains to sell local styles of butter and cheese at market, but they weren’t able to fetch very good prices.

“The herders lived a life of great hardship,” says Zhuoma Yangzong, the founding couples’ daughter and director of marketing for Meixiang, which brought on a technical advisor from Wisconsin to train employees in the science of cheesemaking.

“The Geza rural area, in which Langdu is located, has more yaks than anywhere else in Yunnan—about 14,000 in total,” she said. “The idea of our company was to use yak milk—which has better nutritional value than cow milk and comes from yaks that are grazed the traditional way on pristine 4,000 meter plateaus—to bring greater economic benefits to the local herders and raise their standard of living.”

Geza, Yunnan

Today the company produces yak butter and a line of cheeses and sells them in specialty stores in Shangri-la, Dali, Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong and Taiwan. Meixiang buys the milk directly from local herders and make the cheese at a production facility in Langdu Village. The cheese is free of preservatives, artificial flavoring, hormones and antibiotics. It is processed with salt and aged in local red tree bark for two months.

We tried the company’s Geza Gold brand of cheese and were very impressed. The hard and salty cheese is very aromatic, with a flavor reminiscent of Italian Asiago—and a slight but not unwelcome hint of, um, yakiness. The cheese’s complex flavor is good  by itself but also goes well with apples, pears or grapes… or your favorite red wine.

As environmental sustainability and social responsibility are two of WildChina’s core principles, we admire Meixiang’s vision to create environmentally sustainable business practices aimed at raising income for local people.

Today at WildChina, we received one of the greatest gifts that one can in the travel industry: a beautifully-written, heart-felt, and interesting account by a client of their recent Chinese Treasures journey with WildChina to Beijing, Xi’an, Yunnan province, and Shanghai.

Below is Chuck and Kathie’s story.

“You have to understand, Chuck, economically we are capitalists.  Socially we remain communists.  And, that’s not easy to reconcile.”

We look at our guide as we approach the front gate of our Tibetan hosts for the evening.  It is not the first time we’ve heard sentiments such as this.  During our nearly 10 days in China, multiple WildChina guides have done their best to show us life through indigenous eyes and provide us context to Chinese thinking.  We learned of generational divides – where Mom cannot understand why a 30-something guide prefers to be an entrepreneur rather than wish for the days when Chairman Mao “provided for us and we did not have to worry about anything.”  We heard of collateral fallout from 4-2-1 (4 grandparents, 2 parents and only one child), a result of the one child policy.  We silently chuckled as we listened to concerns about the “younger generation”, this from a 35 year-old, no less.  Being 60+  years ourselves, we wisely kept our mouths shut.

Terracotta Warriors in Xi'an

As we arrive for tonight’s dinner, our focus shifts to the family who will open their home and their hearts to us.  We stand at nearly 11,000 feet in Zhongdian in the Yunnan Provence, surveying the courtyard where in the winter animals are brought from the hills.  There is a small tractor and a barn on the ground floor that in the coldest months helps heat the rooms above.  Our host for the evening, a 14 year-old girl with timid eyes, escorts us to the second floor, where we enter a large room with beautiful lacquered wood corbels and intricate painted details.  A wood-burning cooking area with smoke escaping through the ceiling captures our attention while two bare light bulbs bracket low couches and a table where we will eat.   Standing in the corner is 84 year-old great-grandma.  Her eyes are anything but timid.

After our young host finished showing us additional rooms and a storage area for mounds of yak butter, great-grandma catches Chuck’s eye and she pats a space beside her on a low bench by the fire.  When we sit down she motions with gnarled hands as she speaks to us.  Our guide is in another part of the room.  But it is okay as we smile and great-grandma goes right on talking.

Dinner is accompanied by yak-butter tea and Baijiu [a Chinese rice-based alcohol].  We refuse nothing and enjoy it all.  Chuck shows our young hostess his camera, which immediately breaks down what’s left of her reserve, and she laughs when seeing pictures of friends taken today in the city.   The room has filled with mom, dad, sister and cousins.  Our guide tells them Kathie dances ballet, so a trade is arranged.  They will dance for us if Kathie hoofs her way through a few steps.

And then they dress us.  With rough-skinned hands the women wrap and cinch us while everyone laughs at how we look.  Following more pictures, the women, generations four, three and one (two is not there), perform a line dance that shines with tradition.  Kathie joins them and, along with the youngest, soon matches the footsteps while soft Tibetan words are sung by the elders.  Dad stands to the side with a warm smile as he watches his family with seeming amusement.  Chuck catches the 8 year-old sister, with huge wide-open eyes and lips set in a firm line, as she stares hard at him through the barrel of his camera lens.

On the way back to the hotel, our guide is moved to comment that something unusual happened here tonight.  We are not the first to be brought to this home, but before, our hosts did not dress the guests and great-grandma remained strictly in the background.   There is a message here: what you give can determine what you will receive.

WildChina presents opportunities.  They put you in position to experience something special but if you want it, you have to put a bit of yourself out there; you must be the one to build a platform that supports everybody to open themselves.

Consider this from the host’s perspective.  By sharing a bit of yourself, you become something more than a tourist there to be fed and watch the Native Show.  You interact with them “as people” and that raises the level of how meaningful this is for everyone.

Whether it is a Tibetan night of extending hands of friendship – or listening to a proud father in a Beijing hutong home tell you about his successful martial arts instructor son living in Houston – or two weeks’ worth of cultural immersion with warm and eager guides – if you want to maximize the value of what you paid just to get here, you must go beyond simply seeing what is around you.  You must jump in.  And, as you say goodbye you too can hear, “I’m very western.  We can hug.”

Chuck & Kathie Neuenschwander

Although many Chinese travelers will be leaving the country next week for this year’s October Holiday, a national week of celebration for China’s National Day (October 1st), there will still be plenty of locals who prefer in-bound travel for the break.

Back to the Bund: consider in-city entertainment for this October Holiday.

For those tourists – or expat residents – not willing to brave the crowds during this Golden Week, it may be the best time to do in-city exploration.

If you live in Beijing or Shanghai, and haven’t had time to step out of your office or school to truly experience your home-away-from-home, take this week to explore. For October visitors to China, skip the stress of holiday travel and spend a few extra days in these diverse metropolitan areas before venturing to other areas of the country.

Beyond the historic sites (see them if you haven’t), we’ve compiled a short list of suggestions from the web for the holiday:

Beijing

• For all its new glitzy nightlife, Beijing doesn’t get enough credit for good, old-fashioned fun. Jessica Marsden suggests you try retro roller-skating in Xizhimen – for only 5 RMB. (from To China… And Beyond!)
• If you want to relive the days of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games, head to the Olympic Green, where monitors will keep crowds in check as you explore the Green’s cutting-edge architecture. (from Global Times)

Shanghai

• Split Works Marketing Director and Shanghai resident Abby Lavin has co-compiled a comprehensive Shanghai to-do list for the holiday, complete with a cornucopia of sights, sounds, and activities. (from CNNGo)
• Not previously enticed by the Expo? Reconsider, since new ticket deals are now being offered, boasting more visit time and cheaper prices. (from Shanghaiist)

Still want to be outside of a metropolitan marvel during your October break? Sara Naumann, author of About.com’s China Travel Guide, tells you when to travel and how to book to avoid the worst of October Holiday season.

Over the last decade of bringing our clients to some of China’s wildest destinations, one of the biggest changes we’ve seen has been the large amounts of demolition of swathes of the older parts of town in most cities.

Much of China’s current modernization drive has been based upon the construction of modern residences for its people. But in order to make way for the new, much of the old has had to go.

Recent travels around the country suggest that the wave of demolition taking place in pretty much every city is actually accelerating.

China’s astounding natural beauty and vibrant, dynamic cities will always be a reason to come visit the Middle Kingdom. But if you’ve been putting off your first trip to China and would like to see the charming, historically rich, but somewhat dilapidated older parts of the cities – this is your time.

Whether you want to stroll through the storied hutongs of Beijing or Shanghai’s unique longtangs, we can help you tailor a trip that allows you to enjoy the perks of modernization while still taking a fascinating look into how people used to live in these world cities.

We also take clients to other unique cities including Chengdu, Xiamen, Guiyang, Guilin, Lhasa and Kunming. Contact us today to find out how we can help you experience this intriguing but disappearing part of China.

In eastern China, it’s easy to think that the country’s provinces to the West – namely Tibet, Xinjiang, and Qinghai – are a world away.

But, recent developments at the Shanghai Expo are bringing these two regions of China closer than ever. During Tibet Week at the Expo, a new tourism agreement signed between Shanghai and Lhasa, Tibet’s capital city, confirmed that visitors will soon be able to enjoy “luxury train travel and short-stay trips” between the two cities.

To accommodate increasing visits to the plateau province, government officials, local tourism bureaux and travel agencies will collaborate on increased Tibet-bound tourism. Officials are discussing more efficient train stops and connections, airlines are developing more routes from Shanghai, Xi’an and Xining, and travel agencies are in talks to promote more 3-5 day trips to the area.

Shanghai, a perennial tourist favorite, will also share its tourism knowledge and expertise. As Tibet is one of our favorite fall destinations, we are excited to see what this agreement will mean for western-bound tourism here.

China travelers, stay tuned for developments pending the outcome of this cross-country travel agreement.

If you have been receiving box upon box of mooncakes, or yuebing, these past few weeks like us at WildChina, you are surely thrilled that Mid-Autumn Festival – the  raison d’être for these egg-and-bean-filled confections – is right around the corner.

Zhongqiujie, as it is known in Chinese, is a celebration of the end of the summer harvesting season and the round, full moon of the autumnal equinox. During this holiday period (Wednesday, September 22 to Friday, September 24), family and friends gather to hang festive lanterns, admire the moon, and of course, dine on mooncakes.

How will you celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival? San Francisco’s Chinatown, the largest in the United States, puts on an annual Autumn Moon Festival Street Fair, which features food stalls, performances, and other events to commemorate the occasion. There are also other events and gatherings in local Chinatowns across the country – check your regional event listings in magazines and online for details.

For those in Asia, evening jubilation is a must. CNNGo has a comprehensive list of where to moon gaze in Hong Kong during the festival, whether it be a population metropolitan hangout or quiet nature spot. Our top choice for Beijing? Houhai Lake in Dongcheng district, where the water displays a dynamic, shimmering image of the moon’s reflection. That being said, any cafes or bars with rooftops will provide the right ambiance, and necessary view, for the Festival. People all over China will be spending outdoor time at parks, beaches, lakes, and other areas to celebrate, so find one nearest to you and come prepared with a few lanterns and yuebing.

Revelry aside, travelers to Beijing, and other crowded metropolitan areas, this holiday should be prepared for increased traffic this week before the 3-day break. In light of recent traffic issues plaguing the area, we suggest that you use public transportation and commute at off-peak hours.

On the ‘Roof of the World,’ the sky is the limit when it comes to exploration. Given Tibet’s diverse cultural, historical and religious marvels, it is no wonder that travelers from all over the world flock to this intriguing plateau.

High-altitude autumn landscapes in Lhasa, the region’s capital, provide the perfect backdrop for all-age discovery. After a decade of visiting the area, we have a few favorite sites in the area.

Of particular note are Ganden Monastery and Sera Monastery, two of Tibet’s ‘great three’ university monasteries. After touring the different academic centers within these ancient centers of study, don’t forget to visit Sera’s printing center to create your own prayer flag.

If you’re looking to get out of Lhasa to witness religious life, head to Pabonka Hermitage – now part of Sera Monastery and located northwest of the city.

Feeling a bit lightheaded from the altitude, or simply curious about local remedies? We suggest that you visit a Tibetan Traditional Medicine hospital to hear healing secrets directly from a local Tibetan doctor.

Finally, on your way out of town en route to Shigatse, carve out time to learn how to make incense with a local family.

The rapid modernization of China’s cities has amazed the world with its scale and speed, but it has come at a great cultural cost, especially when considering the one thing that almost all Chinese cities once had in common – massive, imposing city walls.

Now, most cities’ ancient walls and their gates live on in place names only. Beijing’s Chaoyangmen – or “Rising Sun Gate” – was once a gate on the eastern side of Beijing’s legendary city wall. Today it is the name of a station on the number two subway line.

On the other side of the country in the bustling city of Kunming, Beimen Jie – or “North Gate Street” – is the only reminder left of the city’s towering north gate, while Xiaoximen – “Little West Gate” – is now the name of a busy commercial area.

Luckily, one city managed to keep its ancient city wall, and now people from all over China and the world come to marvel at this piece of ancient China’s past. The ancient city wall of the old city of Pingyao in Shanxi province was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

Within the walls, which are lined with moats and dotted with 72 watchtowers, much of the old city of Pingyao is as it once was, with reconstructed portions adhering to strict guidelines to maintain consistency with older architecture. Built in the 14^th Century, these walls have seen a lot.

Pingyao is home to China’s first bank – the old town within the walls was a warren filled with high-profile Qing financiers who controlled the country’s wealth by day and retired to stately courtyard mansions at night.

The influential film Raise the Red Lantern by renowned director Zhang Yimou was filmed in Pingyao. Despite the star power of actress Gong Li, it could be argued that Pingyao stole the show.

For photographers, Pingyao is firmly on the map as one of China’s must-visit destinations. Its city wall and the old city within are brimming with innumerable classic photos waiting to be taken. This weekend the city is hosting the 10^th annual Pingyao International Photography Exhibition, which attracts top photographers from around the world.

The warm sun and cool breezes of Pingyao in the autumn are a pleasant interlude between the hot summers and frigid winters of this north Chinese city. If you’re ready to experience Pingyao in all its glory, check out our Pingyao immersion trip and get whisked away to Qing-era China for a memorable two days. For more information, contact us today.

Much time has passed since China first joined UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 1987, when The Great Wall, Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor (aka the Terracotta Warriors in Xi’an), Peking Man Site at Zhoukoudian, Mogao Caves, Mount Taishan and the Imperial Palaces of the Ming and Qing Dynasties in Beijing and Shenyang were inscribed alongside many of the world’s greatest cultural and natural treasures.

Twenty-three years and 33 inscriptions later, the landscapes of China Danxia are China’s 40^th site on the prestigious list – a list whose allure is proving increasingly irresistible to some career-minded local officials.

But today some Chinese are beginning to wonder if massive amounts of public funds spent by local governments on packaging sites for UNESCO’s consideration could be better spent elsewhere. Furthermore, many are becoming convinced that inscription on the World Heritage list is unnecessary altogether.

A recent survey conducted by China Youth Daily and two popular Chinese websites minyi.net.cn and sina.com.cn found that half of its 1,784 respondents felt that it was “not worthwhile” for local governments to spend large sums of money on applying for World Heritage status. More than half of those surveyed said they have no plans to go to recent Chinese nominations for the list.

The Hunan provincial government reportedly spent a total of 400 million yuan (US$58.8 million) on “preparation and organization procedures” and the county of Libo in Guizhou province ran up debt of 200 million yuan in its failed bid to join the list, according to a Global Times report.

But it is the case of Xi’an’s Daming Palace that has spurred the current online debate about the value of World Heritage status. Recently constructed portions of the palace compound that were modeled after ancient buildings were demolished during a whopping US$5.89 billion renovation of the site scheduled to be completed in time for the October 1 National Day holiday. In the face of public anger at the wasting of funds, an official related to the project said the demolition was necessary in order to meet World Heritage standards.

If the China Youth Daily survey is remotely consistent with general sentiment around the country, then local governments may have to work harder sell their case for using public funds to attempt to woo UNESCO. More than 68 percent of respondents said they didn’t believe that World Heritage status was necessary for protecting important sites, and only 9.1 percent supported applying for the list at all.

Is China becoming a ‘Fast Food Nation’?

Just two decades ago, most people in China ate relatively low-fat meals and regularly rode their bicycles to get around. Obesity was extremely rare.

Fast forward to today: more and more people eat greasy street food or fast food such as KFC and McDonald’s and fewer have the time or energy to get some exercise. The result: China now has 19 million clinically obese citizens, with that number growing by 30 to 50 percent each year, according to a recent PBS report (http://www.pbs.org/newshour/rundown/2010/06/reporters-notebook-obesity-rising-in-china.html).

Photo: Xinhua / Sadat

A group of food-conscious individuals is hoping to promote the idea of healthier eating habits this weekend in Beijing, with Slow Food Saturday at The Schoolhouse at Mutianyu.

The Schoolhouse at Mutianyu, one of our preferred hotels in Beijing and a winner of our Best of China Awards 2010, has been a local pioneer in championing Slow Food for its clients and local community residents. As a sustainable tourism enterprise that offers dining, lodging, and meeting solutions in unique settings just an hour from downtown Beijing, the boutique hotel has redeployed existing buildings to new uses, created local jobs, supported other local businesses, grown their own vegetables and fruits while procuring other foods locally and made almost everything fresh and homemade on their premises.

This Saturday, September 4, in conjunction with the Slow Food Beijing Convivium, The Schoolhouse will put on a day of food, cooking, biking and more in the neighboring Great Wall International Cultural Villages of Mutianyu, Beigou, Xinying, and Tianxianyu to celebrate cooking, sustainable practices, and local communities. For a full schedule and activities, visit their website (http://www.slowfoodsaturday.org).