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Is China becoming a ‘Fast Food Nation’?

Just two decades ago, most people in China ate relatively low-fat meals and regularly rode their bicycles to get around. Obesity was extremely rare.

Fast forward to today: more and more people eat greasy street food or fast food such as KFC and McDonald’s and fewer have the time or energy to get some exercise. The result: China now has 19 million clinically obese citizens, with that number growing by 30 to 50 percent each year, according to a recent PBS report (http://www.pbs.org/newshour/rundown/2010/06/reporters-notebook-obesity-rising-in-china.html).

Photo: Xinhua / Sadat

A group of food-conscious individuals is hoping to promote the idea of healthier eating habits this weekend in Beijing, with Slow Food Saturday at The Schoolhouse at Mutianyu.

What is “Slow Food,” exactly? According to the Slow Food Saturday website:

“Slow Food is about the heritage of food, about its tradition and culture, and about connecting with friends over delicious tastes. The Slow Food movement advocates preserving cultural cuisine, and in doing so preserving local foods, farming and ways of life. Slow Food is the antithesis to large-scale commercial food production and today’s fast-food culture. Slow Food brings back the joy in eating, and encourages us to connect over food.”

The Schoolhouse at Mutianyu, one of our preferred hotels in Beijing and a winner of our Best of China Awards 2010, has been a local pioneer in championing Slow Food for its clients and local community residents. As a sustainable tourism enterprise that offers dining, lodging, and meeting solutions in unique settings just an hour from downtown Beijing, the boutique hotel has redeployed existing buildings to new uses, created local jobs, supported other local businesses, grown their own vegetables and fruits while procuring other foods locally and made almost everything fresh and homemade on their premises.

This Saturday, September 4, in conjunction with the Slow Food Beijing Convivium, The Schoolhouse will put on a day of food, cooking, biking and more in the neighboring Great Wall International Cultural Villages of Mutianyu, Beigou, Xinying, and Tianxianyu to celebrate cooking, sustainable practices, and local communities. For a full schedule and activities, visit their website (http://www.slowfoodsaturday.org).

Event details:

Slow Food Saturday

Saturday, September 4th, 2010 from 10:30 am onward

Mutianyu, Beigou, Xinying, and Tianxianyu Villages

Starting from The Roadhouse (restaurant at The Schoolhouse), just north of the Mutianyu roundabout

For more information, contact info[at]slowfoodsaturday[dot]org.

Beijing’s whirlwind of development, like the rest of China’s, is having serious consequences for the city’s traditional neighborhoods. In wake of such destruction and construction, who is behind the movement to protect the structures of  Beijing’s past?

We spoke to Matthew Hu, Beijing-based cultural heritage preservationist and WildChina expert, about Chinese cultural tourism versus cultural preservation, the impending Gulou-area demolition, and what you don’t know about the Great Wall.

WildChina Travel (WCT): How did you first become interested in Chinese heritage preservation?

Matthew Hu (MH): As a Chinese citizen, I’m naturally very interested in Chinese history. I think it’s interesting: it tells me who I am and where I’m from. My generation has been taught history is a very censored, standard way that has been tightly controlled and approved by the government – it’s not very in-depth. In my various jobs relating to Chinese culture and cultural heritage preservation, I’ve always been asked by foreigners to explain my own culture. This prompted me to read more about Chinese history, to really understand it. In order to do so, you really have to understand Chinese heritage. It’s everywhere you go – historical sites, the buildings across from your home, etc. So, this is where my jobs took me. I learned about residential, storage, administrative, ceremonial, and other types of buildings present in Chinese history and culture. They tell you so much about what traditional Chinese culture is all about.

WCT: How have your professional and personal interests related to heritage preservation evolved over the years?

MH: At first, when I was in the travel industry, I went from place to place exploring different traditional Chinese structures. In heritage preservation, you do the same thing, but have more time to understand the rationale, historical background, hidden reasons, and socio-economic circumstances that contribute to the creation of a building or structure. So, my main focus in work has not changed, but rather become more focused. In any culture in China, whether it be Han Chinese or that of a minority group, I find that the most impressive aspect of it is usually the architecture that supports, literally and figuratively, their customs, beliefs, and other aspects of culture. Heritage preservation gives me the opportunity to understand how such structures accomplish this.

WCT: What have your latest projects/initiatives been relating to heritage preservation in China?

MH: Right now I am working on a hutong renovation and preservation project that integrates renovation training into the process. While it is certainly important for preservationists to renovate hutongs, local construction teams, as well as owners and tenants, need to know how to properly restore these homes for longer-lasting cultural impact and better structures. We are collaborating with the local government on training sessions on how to properly and sensitively renovate these courtyard homes, in order to maintain an air of tradition and authenticity. Correct practices are crucial to these homes’ upkeep; otherwise, they quickly deteriorate. For example, if one layer of plaster is put onto a hutong home being renovated, it is proper to wait 7 days until the next coating, so that the first layer is stable. Construction teams, in the interest of time and money, often keep putting on layers without waiting for that first coat to dry. You can see the difference – half a year later, these homes’ walls are already peeling. It’s important to get the details right in this process to properly and effectively preserve these structures.

WCT: Which type of Chinese structure, in your opinion, is most culturally important in China’s history? Why?

MH: It’s hard to say, but if I have to choose, I think the Great Wall and the hutongs. Both are much more diversified than many people think. Take the hutongs, for instance. Each one is different from the other. The culture in each area of hutongs is different as well. As for the Great Wall, each section is unique – different materials are used, aesthetics are different, and more. The Wall has been glorified because it is a symbol of Chinese civilization, but so much of it is neglected because some sections are in remote areas and don’t look as impressive as other parts. Both the hutongs and the Great Wall are largely misinterpreted and neglected.

WCT: In light of the Gulou demolition, how do you think the area will change? At this point, is there anything preservationists, activists, and citizens can do to protect the traditional hutongs?

MH: As of now, the government has already begun the project. It’s hard to say what we can do at this point. There is no public petition process, so the public cannot be part of the game. Anyone who cares about the hutongs can still go and document these areas, and preserve them in that way. While many see the demolition as a development that will be unsatisfactory to many parties, which I do not dispute, I am more inclined to look at it as a case study in understanding preservation versus economic impact. In the government’s eyes, not including the public opinion might save them money avoiding grassroots campaigns and petitioners to stop the development, which would mean jailings and other methods of control. In that way, they can coordinate a systematic method of renovation within the government. This system of disregarding public opinion, however, is not right, and so the outcome will not be satisfactory. We need to keep a close eye on this project and follow its development.

Explore these traditional neighborhoods while you still can – take a customized tour of Beijing with WildChina. Questions? Email us at info@wildchina.com or ask us on Twitter: @WildChina.

In the spirit of #TravelTuesday and unique China experiences, we’re highlighting Beijing’s beloved hutong, or traditional alleyways.

Last year, our Beijing guide Bunny explained why hutong are so special in a video. This Saturday, July 17, our friends at the Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Center are putting on a unique multimedia event to celebrate the hutong, and you shouldn’t miss out.

Here are the details from CHP:

Do You Hutong? 看!胡同

One of the most anticipated events of Beijing’s summer is nearly here. Do You Hutong? 看!胡同 is a multimedia cocktail party including original art, live music, photography, and interactive dialogue. The centerpiece of the event is a silent auction of distinctively designed courtyard gates by artists and designers, both local and foreign.

Select artists and designers are applying their talent and individual interpretation to a unique canvas – a clay model of a traditional Chinese courtyard gate – to produce one-of-a-kind collector’s items for guests to purchase and enjoy via silent auction. All proceeds from ticket sales and the silent auction and evening directly benefit the Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Center (CHP).

www.doyouhutong.com

Advance ticket: RMB150 | At door: RMB200
Advance ticket sales at CHP, 46 Fangjia Hutong or the NLGX Design Store, 33 Nanluoguxiang.

7.00 pm-11.00 pm Saturday, 17 July, 2010
Three Shadows Photography Art Centre at 155 Caochangdi

This is a private event. To register or for more information:
6403 6532 or events.chp@gmail.com

To benefit Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Center (CHP).

Follow @WildChina and @bjchp on Twitter.

The movie critics don’t seem to think that highly of the new Karate Kid film, but I had a great time watching it with my 7-year-old son. It’s one of the few kid movies that I sat through without falling asleep in the middle, which unfortunately was the case with the fantastic Toy Story 3!

Here are my reasons for liking it:

Most importantly, I just LOVED the scenery shots. The kid practices his kicks at the Great Wall, visits the Forbidden City, and travels by train to Guilin to climb to the top of Wudang Mountain. All of these shots are simply beautiful!

Wudangshan is the Daoist Mountain where Mr. Han (the Kungfu Shifu) takes him to reach the sacred water source. The scenes of Daoists practicing meditation or Kungfu are Hollywood stage setups, but they are beautiful and at times, when traveling in China, you can find truly spiritual moments as such when visiting these sacred mountains.

One of my favorite Daoist Mountains to visit is called Weishan in Dali, Yunnan. It’s much smaller in scale, and is very little visited as Daoism isn’t gaining many followers these days. But, the Daoist temples scattered on the mountain offer a peaceful respite from the noise of Chinese towns. One of my favorite things to do is to hike to the highest temple and drink tea with the only resident Daoist, who grows all his own fresh produce at the temple. The tea costs RMB 1 (equivalent of 15 cents), and tastes pure and sweet after hiking there.

Now when it comes to logistics, however, I would NEVER recommend anyone to travel from Beijing by train to Guilin, to climb Wudang Mountain. So, please don’t follow Mr. Han on this route. Wudang Mountain is 800 miles south of Beijing, and Guilin (where the lovely Karst hills rise out of Li River) is another 800 miles further to the south. It would be a ridiculous detour – but it works in a movie.

So, walk in knowing it’s Hollywood, and enjoy the stunning scenery.

Another reason for liking it is the reality of China that’s portrayed in the film. Mei Ying (the Karate Kid’s love interest) and her family provide a small window into the life of an upper middle class family in China. Usually, it’s a small family of 3 people, mom, dad and the only child. The well-off Chinese families are buying up luxury cars like Audi or BMW, the successful mom and dad are very well dressed. The pressure on the only child is intense, with piano lessons and violin practice sessions everyday. The movie hasn’t quite shown the intense pressure for testing into colleges, but that would have distracted from the spotlight on the Karate Kid.

All in all, I find it entertaining, and absolutely worth watching for those considering visiting China. WildChina offers a classic family trip to China that incorporates Kungfu and some of the classic sites that viewers will find in the Karate Kid, like the Great Wall and Forbidden City.

As night fell on the grasslands after our afternoon of yurt building, Shirley, my fellow local guides, our guides and I left our nomadic accommodations for nighttime revelry, Inner Mongolia-style.


The sun sets over the Xilamuren Grasslands before nighttime festivities begin.

In the communal area bordered by yurts, we gathered around a bonfire to watch traditional Mongolian dance and throat singing. In Mongolian tradition, throat singing, or “khoomii,” is characterized by replacing all musical instruments with vocals, so that the voice emulates the sound of such instruments. Ranging from very low notes to higher octaves, throat singing is incredibly relaxing (in my opinion). On the quiet grasslands, our small huddle of eager listeners around the singers was an intimate and unique way to listen to this seldom-heard style of music. (Beijingers, you may be familiar with throat singing after watching Beijing-based Mongolian folk band Hanggai Band perform either at Amilal or a music event around the city.)

Once the bonfire had died out and the singers retired for the night, we retreated to a large, communal yurt for an hour of storytelling. Seated on the floor, our guests listened to grand tales of Genghis Khan, the great Mongol leader, and his adventures and conquests. While Genghis Khan has his fair share of misdoings, his tales also promote universally-applicable morality and life lessons. They were greatly enjoyed by our guests.

Stories told, we gathered our belongings and returned to our respective yurts. Shirley and I discussed the following days’ plans with our local Inner Mongolian guides and chatted for a bit. Our Inner Mongolian guides were easygoing and interesting to talk to – after enjoying their company for the past few days and learning more about their lives in this northern province, I didn’t want to go to sleep! But, after half an hour, Shirley and I left their yurt, ready to prepare ourselves with numerous blankets for a cold night in the grasslands. Thursday, we knew, would be warmer.

Stay tuned for more of my stories from Inner Mongolia on the WildChina blog.

WildChina’s Beijing office will be closed on Monday, June 14 for China’s national Dragon Boat Festival holiday. The US office will be open as usual.

What is Dragon Boat Festival? Known in Chinese as “端午节” (Duanwu jie), the occurs to race dragon boats – a traditional teak wood boat – as well as drink traditional wine and and eat “粽子” (zongzi) rice dumplings. Many Chinese on the Mainland, as well as in Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan, engage in day-long boat races to commemorate the occasion.

(courtesy BBC / AP)

For inquiries and assistance, please call our toll-free number, 1-888-902-8808, or email info@wildchina.com.

Happy Dragon Boat Festival to our friends and fellow travelers in China, as well as to those celebrating abroad!

WildChina’s DC office will be closed Monday, May 30 for the Memorial Day holiday. We wish our friends, family and travelers a happy holiday.

WildChina’s Beijing office will be open at this time. For inquiries, please send an email to info@wildchina.com or visit our website.

WildChina’s Beijing office will be closed on Monday, May 3, 2010, due to the May holiday in China.

During this time, please contact the DC office with any inquiries by emailing us at info@wildchina.com, or by calling 1-888-902-8808.

UPDATE: Unfortunately, this event has been canceled. Stay tuned for any additional updates.

We at WildChina just received an email from our friends at the Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Center regarding the rumored demolition of Beijing’s hutong- and culture-filled Gulou [Drum Tower] area. In light of the potential restructuring of this historically important area, BJCHP is holding a special public meeting this Saturday, March 27 to discuss the future of the neighborhood.

As proponents of sustainable travel in China, WildChina is very much concerned with these developments and strongly supports BJCHP in their efforts to preserve Beijing’s incredible history. We hope you will, too.

Gulou demolition forum poster

The following is information from the BJCHP email:

Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Center’s (CHP) crucial public forum on the planned redevelopment of Gulou is being held this Saturday 27 March at Contempio. CHP is urging everyone to attend to help protect this unique neighbourhood for future generations to enjoy.

Multiple sources have indicated that a 5 billion RMB budget has been allocated to convert 12.5 hectares of the Drum and Bell Tower area into a ‘Beijing Time Cultural City’ – putting the neighborhood in serious danger. Such a massive scale development will include large infrastructures like public squares and a museum. As a result, there will be extensive evictions, demolition, and construction in this ancient area, and gone will be the traditional courtyards, hutongs, and local residents.

We hope to see you at the forum to hear what you, and other Beijing residents, think about this proposed plan. Please forward this email widely to other concerned Beijingers so even more people know about our forum and this threat to the Gulou area.

Date: Saturday, March 27, 2010
Time: 2:30 – 5:30pm
Venue: Contempio, No. 4 Zhangwang Hutong | 北京市东城区旧鼓楼大街张旺胡同4号

Language: Chinese

Featuring:
He Shuzhong | CHP Founder and Chairman, cultural heritage legal expert
Wang Jun | Xinhua Senior Reporter, author of Chengji
Dominic Johnson-Hill | Plastered T-Shirts founder
Bian Lanchun | Architecture professor at Tsinghua University

This event is free. No pre-registration is required.

Find out more about the event and the redevelopment plan.

These days, I seem to be doing a lot of traveling and a lot of talking. The traveling, unfortunately, does not take me to the mom- and-pop pickle store in Dali, or a breathtaking valley in Shangri-la, but rather New York or Boston. The talking is less about traveling to China, and more about why I have choosen travel as a profession. People tend to be very curious after they learn that I have a Harvard MBA and used to work for McKinsey as a management consultant.

Just last week, I took our young DC office intern, Sammie, along to Boston, because I was the guest speaker in a Harvard Business School classroom where the MBA students were to examine the WildChina case. Sammie was eager to see what a famed MBA class looked like. I don’t know what she got out of the classroom, but I got something out of the journey.

I pre-warned Sammie that I travel light, a carry-on suitcase and a purse. No checked luggage. She came prepared. Well done, I thought, until we got to the security line. I breezed through the detector and was putting on my boots at the other end. Two people cut in front of Sammie while she was busy removing her metal bracelets, belts, laptop, digital camera… she was obviously getting frazzled. I smiled at her, and told her she should watch “Up In the Air.” George Clooney’s Ryan definitely got the airport system worked out, and that comes with repetition.

The Blue line subway station at the airport didn’t seem anything new to Sammie. She was used to subway rides in Beijing, where she studied at one of the top universities. However, the “Downtown Crossing” stop was an eye opener: “ WOW, 美国的地铁怎么那么破呀?´ (Wow, How can American subways look so grungy!) Yes, the walls were dirty and covered with dust that had accumulated over the years; the lighting was dim; and there was a musician playing guitar in a corner.  Her shock was justified — who would have expected to see subways of this condition in America, after riding the brand new lines in Beijing? The subway stations in Beijing all sport bright lighting, with colorful ads for the newest model of cell phone and Nike shoes.
Mei jie (“Sister Mei” in Chinese – that’s what she calls me), you walk so fast! Do you do this all the time? Is this what an entrepreneur does?”

I told her that the English word of “entrepreneur” glorified my job. Entrepreneur is often translated into Chinese as 创业者,or 企业家, but the version I like best is 个体户 — a single-unit entity, pronounced GE-TI-HU. GE-TI-HU often reminds me of the dumpling vendor in the old alley way not far from my apartment in Beijing. It was a husband and wife stall. They got up at 4am to start making the fresh dumplings for the day by hand. The first clients would arrive around 6:30 am, and the last ones left around 8 or 9 at night.  They mixed their own dough, cleaned all the tables, and washed all the dishes themselves. They made a grand total of RMB 3000 per month — about $350 in those days. They had a baby and thought they had the best lives, compared to their relatives back at home in the villages near Shanghai. I went back to look for them again last year, but they were gone. Where their stall once was is now the construction site of a new apartment building. I just hope they have a similar stall in other parts of Beijing, or back home.

On the trip, I told Sammie that my job is “搞业务的”, or “Sales or Business Development” in English. A long time ago, I never really understand what 搞业务的 meant in Chinese. To me, it often conjured up the image of a young male in a cheap suit, holding a fake leather case, handing out business cards with a huge smile on his face. But, after years of airport travel, subway rides, and rental car trips, I have finally came to terms with this title for myself. Yes, 我是搞业务的。 I am a salesperson, because I am proud of what I am selling – a different experience in China.  www.wildchina.com

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