Received this review from a WildChina client:

As a general statement, let me just say that we were TOTALLY pleased with the services that WildChina provided us through the efforts of Jenny, Stuart and our driver (I’m sorry to say I’ve forgotten his name). Should we have the need and opportunity, I would heartily recommend your business to other friends and travelers. In fact, we already had referred a couple folks to Jenny who were a part of a TaiChi group we joined in Beijing following our trip to the Guilin area. I would look forward to working with your people again if we should have the good fortune to be able to return to China in the future!
Sincerely,
Rik Flynn

A friend/WildChina client sent me the note:

“About China and the air quality in Beijing I think your statement “Loved the energy there, but worried about the air quality” sums up the problem. I believe it is this energy (human energy) that is creating, in part, the sources of air pollution. In other words to improve air quality this energy must be directed towards environmental friendly chores that is by their nature are less rewarding financially on the short term. This would not be acceptable for a population that is trying to improve their lots in life after so many years of poverty and lack of opportunities. Does this makes sense? You tell me.”

My husband labels me as a “patriotic Chinese” and I generally stay away from commenting on politics. But, for air quality, I do want to give my travel advice: If you are going to Beijing and Shanghai, go in the Fall (or Spring as second choice). I was in Beijing in July just before Olympics last year, and then again August this year, the air difference was night and day.  On the recent trip, I took my  kids out for walks to my favorite Ritan Park by the Friendship Store in Beijing at 5am (jetlag), and I couldn’t breathe! 5AM, it’s supposed to be the cleanest air of the day! Either my memory of lovely Beijing eluded me, or the air seriously deteriorated. Fall is the only time when you see crisp blue skies occasionally in Beijing. In the Spring, sometimes you can run into serious sand storms that turn the sky black.

To my friends comment, here is my response:

I can’t agree with you more on the energy vs. air quality tug and pull. The sad thing is, most of the people I know there are oblivious to it, precisely as you said, making money is more important. There are some friends who already have money, they are very pessimistic – oh, there is no hope, so why bother, just go live overseas. Then, there are the few who are dedicated to conservation, they care and want to do good, but their voices are often muted by the tide.

Michael Meyer is the author of a soon-to-be-published book called The Last Days of Old Beijing, which describes the disappearing hutong neighborhoods of Beijing, as well as the people who’ve lived there for decades. The book is on my to-read list, but I just watched a talk  Meyer gave at the Asia Society in New York.

Meyer lived in the old hutong neighborhood of Dazhalan, an area the size of Vatican City yet with over 57,000 residents squeezed into the narrow lane houses that have defined Beijing life for 600 years. Living without heat, air-conditioning, plumbing, or hot water, Meyer describes both the sense of community he felt around him, as well as the real physical discomfort that the residents of these neighborhoods feel – just imagine living in a brick house, with no insulation, in the middle of a Beijing winter!

While I often hear about the destruction of the old hutong neighborhoods, Meyer’s talk illustrated a few points I hadn’t seen before.

• The hutongs are vital centers of community and commerce, yet lacking in creature comforts we take for granted: in-house toilets, heating, and hot water. This poses a huge dilemma for preservationists as modern standards make these living conditions unacceptable.
• While a vital part of Beijing’s history, the hutongs are often not built (or more likely, repaired) with the highest construction standards. Furthermore, they were originally designed for a single-family, but almost all have been split and cordoned off into cramped living quarters with as many as 8 families in a single courtyard.
• Many hutong residents will happily accept government buy-outs on their land in order to move to modern apartments in the suburbs of Beijing.

I completely understand the two opposing forces at play here. From weekends spent wandering the back lanes of Beijing, I ‘ve fallen in love with the charm and history of the hutongs. However, I’ve also known friends who’ve moved into hutong apartments in the summer, only to leave immediately after they spend their first night shivering in the fall frost. Neither demolition nor the “Disney-fication” of the remaining alleyways are the answer; but I think there’s got to be a way to bring these communities up to par with modern life.

The New York Times has some really interesting pieces on travel in China right now, including:

• The Perils of Hong Kong Jade on tricks and tips for buying jade in Hong Kong

I thought this piece was really interesting, and love the candor of the jade seller (Come on, this is a $2 cellphone charm, of course it’s not great jade!). There are great deals on all kinds of souvenirs in China, but with everything, caveat emptor.

• The Surf’s Always Up in the Chinese Hawaii about new surfing trends and the tourism boom in Hainan

This reminds me of a similar trend that’s happening with snowboarding and skiing developing in China. I haven’t personally been to Hainan, but would definitely be interested in some face time (and, no doubt, falling time!) with a beach and a surfboard. Anyone care to join?

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Before I came to Beijing, I remember hearing the word “opera” and associating it with the beautiful arias of Italian singers and world-famous artists like Pavarotti. After going to the Laoshe Teahouse my whole perspective changed! Opera in China is an entirely different, more amazing and way more colorful way to describe the opera genre… it is Peking Opera.

As I was walking into the Laoshe Teahouse, I didn’t really know what to expect after seeing the distinct feng shui-like decorations in the foyer. I do, however, remember thinking how perfect everything was set up. After listening to a little quartet play, I made my way to the main hall where I was seated in a group table and served some delicious little snacks and their famous green tea (which I downed in about two seconds and proceeded to ask for more).

When the first act opened, I was still unsure about what was coming. The depiction of the tea ceremony was so detailed, but my favorite part was the face changing. This man, all done up in the traditional Peking opera costume, would dance around and change his mask fifteen times in a matter of nanoseconds. How he did it? I have no idea, but it definitely peaked my interest to go look it up. And when I did, I learned this is a form of art that takes about ten to fifteen years to master. Incredible!

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Before I moved to Beijing I never expected that I would spend some of my winter weekends on the ski slopes outside of the city. I guess people (including myself) don’t tend to associate China with snow sports (beyond the ice sculptures of Harbin perhaps), so I thought I’d make a quick list of places where you can enjoy the snow in China.

Granted, these resorts are for the most part better suited to the amateur snow seeker, but nevertheless a cheap and relatively inexpensive excursion out of the city. Whether skiing, snowboarding, or hanging in the lodge is your thing, there are quite a few options for enjoying the winter in China.

Nanshan Ski Resort

• Location: Miyun county, Beijing (about 80Km from downtown Beijing)
• Description: 3000 pairs of skiing equipment for rental, 1318 meters of Toboggan Runs, air park, one bridge, and 5 jumping segments
• Cost: Weekday RMB180, Weekend RMB280, Holiday RMB320
• How to get there:Take Dongmi Zhuanxian Bus at Dongzhimen Bus Station, to Miyun Xidaqiao Station, RMB10/person. Then take a taxi to Nanshan (RMB10/car), about 10 minutes
• Contact: 84286688 or 64450990

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One of the perks (and perils) of traveling through Beijing and Shanghai is the excellent shopping that can be found, and often for great prices. With the holidays fast approaching, your resident WildChina shoppers thought we’d share a few of our favorite city haunts. Some are very well-known, and some are tiny gems that we were reluctant to part with. Happy holiday hunting!

Beijing:

• For serious bargain hunters,  the stalls at Hongqiao Market will whip up strands of pearls, coral, beads, and semi-precious stones to your heart’s content, while you watch. Buyer beware: quality (and price) varies greatly, so be sure to inspect your wares before you hand over your hard-earned RMB.
• Looking for something new for the home?  Lost and Found is the place for eclectic home-wares.
• If you have a fan of contemporary art on your shopping list, than the 798 District is a must even if the gallery paintings fall just a little out of your budget. For those less willing to fork over the big bucks for avant garde art, this is also a great place to source art, photography and design books.
• Grifted is home to an off-beat collection of unique, one of a kind gifts with a quirky sense of humor.
• Find almost anything at Panjiayuan, a massive open air market, perfect for souvenirs and “antiques”. Be sure to go early though, as that’s when you’ll find the best bargains. Only open on the weekends.

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William Lindesay has lived in China for 14 years during which he has spent “more than 800 days on the Great Wall.” In 1987, he made what China’s Xinhua News Agency described as “the most successful foreign exploration of the Great Wall”, and he recounted his 2,470 km solo adventure in “Alone on the Great Wall” published in the UK, USA and Germany. In 2005, “Walking on the Wall with William Lindesay” was listed as one of the 50 travel experiences of a lifetime by the UK edition of Conde Nast Traveller. As one of the world’s foremost experts on the Great Wall, and a phenomenal Wall guide, WildChina is honored to be able to share William’s insights on one of the world’s wonders.

WildChina: When did you first start taking guests to the Great Wall?

William Lindesay: I guess it was about 10 years ago now. Actually, [we're talking on] Dec 4th, and 21 years ago on this day I reached Shanhaiguan at the end of my journey along the wall on foot. Obviously, I had a story to tell, so I published my first book. China was not the flavor of the moment like it is now, so it was not perceived as exciting for travelers to come here. Towards the end of the ’90s I began spending a lot of time biking near the Wall, and taking lots of photos. My wife was becoming not a golf widow, but a Wall widow, so I wanted to include her in my passion. We bought a little farmhouse near the wall, and one of my friends suggested that we invite guests to stay with us, so we did that. I found that our first visitors welcomed not just the Great Wall story, but my story – the story of conservation, why I liked the Wall, and how I first discovered it.

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