‘Ah, we were so close today’.  After 11 days of hiking in Changqing National Nature Reserve our American visitor, Chris, finally got to see a wild giant panda, but it was very fleeting.  With only a blurry photo through thick bamboo as a record, it almost doesn’t count for Chris.  Wildlife watching and photography is a passion for Chris and he has spent months at a time travelling to all corners of the globe in search of some of the world’s most iconic and, sometimes endangered, animals; tigers in India, jaguars in Nicaragua, mountain lions in the United States.  While his time here has been sometimes difficult and trying, Chris is not interested in getting his photo from going to a breeding centre or zoo.  He is after the real deal; a wild panda not habituated, not released, not herded towards the paying ‘customer’, not radio collared / micro-chipped.  The effort and struggle is part of the lure.

The stories that I have been told are that the likelihood of spotting wild pandas in Changqing is pretty good, despite their well-known elusiveness.  The photos on display in Changqing’s recently opened Visitor’s Information Centre confirm this, indicating that, not only are sightings seemingly common, but that a very close encounter with them is possible.  As we head back to Huayang, tired and just a little frustrated after being so close, yet so far, we discuss the possible reasons behind our lack of success and what this means for tourism based around seeing pandas.

Are there less pandas this year? Changqing was one of the first nature reserves established in the Qinling Mountains back in 1995.  Research concluded that the area had the highest density of pandas in the world.  Since then, the government has continued its efforts in conserving panda habitat, establishing a network of connected reserves across the Qinling Mountains.  We wonder whether the pandas are beginning to spread out a little as they discover secure habitat in the adjacent reserves.  While obviously this is a positive outcome for pandas, it might mean our task of finding pandas may be a little more difficult.

Are we looking in the right areas? Changqing, while covering over 30,000ha, only allows tourists into certain areas.  When on a specialised wildlife encounter tour, visitors are taken to either Baiyangping or Daping, which are located within the reserve’s designated core habitat area.  Access is via old logging tracks, with only two along the valley bottoms vehicle accessible.  The smaller valleys branching higher up into the mountains are steeper and the former logging tracks have been allowed to regenerate.  Hiking is required into these areas while accessing the ridges requires finding your own way up (following your guide’s lead, of course).

For the majority of our time, we stick to the valleys based on the guides’ previous experience in finding pandas at this time of year.  While there is plenty of evidence to suggest pandas have been low down in the valleys, all the signs (panda poo, scratch and scent marks, broken bamboo and footprints in the mud and snow) appear to be at least a week old.  With a warmer than usual winter and a lack of a decent snowpack, the pandas seem to have headed for the ridges a little earlier this year in preparation for the upcoming mating season.  On Chris’ 11^th day in the reserve that is where we head and it is here we have our closest encounter.  But, getting up the steep and sometimes slippery slopes requires a good level of fitness and is not feasible for some visitors.

Are the pandas avoiding us? The trails we are hiking along are rather overgrown with bamboo and we sometimes have trouble navigating our way through without making some noise.  For an animal that tries to avoid contact with other pandas for most of the year (preferring to save energy due to their poor diet and communicate through more indirect ways such as scent-marking) creating excessive noise is a concern.  Also, as our guide Jack informs us, the older pandas of Changqing have been somewhat habituated to humans through the previous research of Professor Pan Wenshi of Peking University.  However, research involving direct contact with pandas ceased years ago, with current research in Changqing utilising infrared motion-sensing cameras (the use of radio-collars has been banned for all first-grade protected animals in China).  Thus, there are likely to be less pandas that are ‘used’ to humans in the future, perhaps decreasing with it the possibility of human interactions with wild pandas.

With all this running through my head, I wonder whether there are ways we can improve the probability of seeing pandas in the wild.  Can it be done without compromising their protection and how important is it that visitors find their panda?  These are not easy questions to answer and they often form the centre of debate surrounding the benefits and impacts of wildlife tourism.  While some conservationists argue that wildlife tourism can negatively affect wildlife population dynamics, their behaviour and habitat, others contend that, if managed appropriately, it can make important contributions to biodiversity conservation.  The United Nations Environment Programme is just one of many organisations that have recognised these benefits, highlighting wildlife tourism’s potential to raise awareness of the animals observed and their habitat, to create revenues for conservation and to bring jobs and economic opportunities for local communities.  It is particularly significant as many iconic wildlife are located in rural areas of developing countries, some of poorest regions of the world with pressures to exploit the surrounding natural resources.

Changqing and the village of Huayang are certainly showing signs that they are benefitting from the opportunities that increased tourism to the area is bringing.  The presence of wildlife, in particular pandas, is a major motivation in tourists coming here.  But, as highlighted above, finding pandas in the wild is no easy task.  Having only been discovered by the outside world in 1869, they have a history of keeping to themselves.  Our experience over the past week has me wondering whether we should be lowering our expectations on seeing a panda in the wild and what this would mean for tourism to places such as Changqing.  Wildlife tourism needs to be both sustainable in terms of maintaining the animal populations and their habitat but also maintaining the tourist industry. If the tourist experience does not live up to expectations, it has the potential to affect visitor numbers, putting at risk the associated development and conservation outcomes.

While sighting a panda was the aim, our ventures into the reserve over the preceding week had us the fortune of at least knowing we were in the company of pandas.  On the trail of a fast-movingyoung panda (too fast for us to keep up across such tricky terrain) having discovered its fresh pawprints, we hear its mother call out to it, who had separated to feed nearby.  Another day, we hear two males involved in a heated discussion as to who should have the chance to mate with the nearby female.  These were amazing moments, although I’m sure a face-to-face encounter would surpass those.  But, in being out in the reserve on the trail of pandas, I feel as though we have learnt a lot about pandas, how they interact with each other, how they move about their habitat, how difficult their habitat is to negotiate etc., something that a visit to a breeding centre or zoo is unlikely to provide.

In addition, while pandas are the main drawcard, time spent at Changqing has many visitors coming away with a much greater appreciation for the many other wonderful animals that call Changqing home.  Our time spent hiking in the reserve has us spotting numerous small groups of golden pheasants, a particularly colourful sight.  An old male golden takin was also making a regular appearance having seemingly set himself up around our access road.  As a result, we were becoming accustomed to his daily routine of positioning himself across the river in the morning before making his way to the ridge on the opposite side in the late afternoon.  We were also fortunate enough to sight a few groups of golden monkeys during our hikes.  They’re a little easier spot then the solitary panda, tending to make large noisy movements while travelling from tree to tree.  Their constant chatter among themselves is also a giveaway to their presence, while they are also happy enough to sit relatively still in a tree nearby, happy in the knowledge that we’re no threat to them on the ground.

Another highlight was the occasional glimpses of predatory birds; a fish owl roosting in a distant tree, a northern goshawk circling high above.  On one occasion we disturbed what appeared to be a very large bird of prey.  It quickly flew off with us barely getting a glimpse of it.  But, from what we did see, we could tell it was huge.  We set off on the possibility of finding what had it in the area and we were lucky enough to find its rather recent kill, a goral.  A goral is no small mammal, being approximately 25-40kg and 80-130cm in length so this bird had done well to bring it down.  We spot is claw marks in the snow and also its wing marks, a beautiful streak.  Based on this, we guess that what killed this goral and what we very quickly saw was a golden eagle, quite a rare sighting.

Thus, while we have not been successful in our pursuit in getting our dream panda encounter, the time spent searching, hiking in the snow, being out in nature, seeing other animals is still an amazing experience.  I can understand, though, that this may be a small consolation to those who have travelled halfway around the world with their heart set on sighting a wild panda.  For those tourists in which a sighting and photo opportunity will make or break their trip, I would suggest a visit to one of the panda breeding centres or zoos is included in their itinerary as a back-up.

But, if you want to get back to nature, to really get an understanding and appreciation of the environment the pandas and some many other animals inhabit, then Changqing will not leave you disappointed.  While the guides here make every effort to try and find a panda for you, sometimes the pandas just don’t want to find you!

Chris has not been deterred and is currently planning on returning to Changqing to again seek out his panda next winter in December or January.

All Images: Christopher S.

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Wayne Purcell is the Australian Youth Ambassador for Development at the Changqing Nature Reserve of the Giant Panda.

Prior to arriving here in China, I didn’t know much about China’s natural wonders beyond pandas. For me, China was an ancient civilisation with numerous cultural treasures, but also one with over a billion people undergoing a rapid modernisation process.  Forming part of this has been an increase in the number of Chinese affording to travel and take holidays.

Given this, the question that I was interested in, and part of the reason for me coming to China, was how this history and recent development has impacted on China’s flora and fauna.  More importantly, though, is what this means for China’s natural areas going forward and whether there is room for conservation among so many people and their new-found modern lifestyles.

Changqing National Nature Reserve in Shaanxi Province is probably a good example on how conservation, development and tourism are becoming interconnected within 21^st century China.  Tourists have been visiting Changqing since its establishment in 1995, although they were generally few in number, consisting mainly of forestry or conservation industry professionals.  While a lack of knowledge of Changqing as a tourist destination was a likely reason for this, accessibility was a major deterrent given its location high up in the Qinling Mountains.  As a Chinese saying highlights, ‘the road to Sichuan is harder than the road to heaven’.

However, China’s recent growth has resulted in a massive infrastructure building program which is removing such obstacles.  This is improving mobility for both tourists and villagers alike, opening up some of China’s wild places for tourism and development.  In relation to Changqing, a new expressway linking the nearby city of Yangxian to Xi’an opened in 2007, reducing the travel time from over 7 hours to only 3 hours.  In addition, the road from Yangxian to Huayang (the nearest village to Changqing) was also upgraded in 2008, enabling the trip to be undertaken in a little over 2 hours.

While fewer than 1,000 people visited Changqing annually up to 2007, these recent developments have assisted in seeing visitor numbers increase to over 3500, and it is predicted to grow substantially over the next 5-10 years.  The growth in the tourism market is seeing development take-off in the formerly isolated village of Huayang.  The ancient town has undergone a recent facelift with the old streets being repaved and many of the buildings given new wooden fronts.

In addition, many businesses are now deriving part of their income through tourism enterprises such as farm-stay meals and accommodation as well as selling of local produce and goods.  As a result, villagers are seeing first-hand the potential economic benefits that can come with tourism through the conservation of the surrounding natural area.  Indeed, one recent western visitor to Changqing remarked at how well-dressed the villagers of Huayang were.

However, while tourism brings with it such opportunities, it also creates challenges that need to be recognised.  With Changqing established for the protection of the Giant Panda and conservation of its habitat (along with many other endangered animals and plants), it is important that all activities in the area, including tourism, are managed with this objective in mind.  As a result, my predecessor, Heather Graham, worked with Changqing and WWF to develop an Ecotourism Action Plan for the reserve.  The implementation of this plan is guiding management decisions over the next 5 years in line with ecotourism principles to ensure the maintenance and protection of its precious and unique biodiversity.

With reserves such as Changqing being proactive in preparing for the growth in visitor numbers, I am optimistic about the ability for China to protect its natural areas for future generations to enjoy.  However, I would suggest to anyone thinking about coming here to do it soon.  Reserves such as Changqing are still relatively unknown and visitors, particularly outside of the summer peak season, are likely to have the whole reserve to themselves, which can only be a good thing for animal spotting.  However, China’s rising middle class, combined with its increasing appeal among westerners following events such as the 2008 Beijing Olympics and 2010 Shanghai World Expo, suggests that this is unlikely to be for long.

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Wayne is currently working for Shaanxi Changqing National Nature Reserve in Huayang Village, about 5 hours south-west of Xi’an.

Hi all! My name is Wayne, and I’m an Australian currently working for Shaanxi Changqing National Nature Reserve in Huayang Village, about 5 hours south-west of Xi’an.  My series of posts, as well as my work assisting Changqing staff manage the impacts of tourism on the reserve, follows on from Heather Graham, who was here in 2009.

Changqing was established as a nature reserve in 1995, with an upgrade to ‘national’ status in 1997 for the purposes of conserving the habitat of the Giant Panda (Ailuropoda melanoleuca), of which there are 100 or so that call Changqing home.  Not surprisingly then, the panda is what the reserve is best known for, with many tourists heading to these parts for the opportunity to catch a glimpse of these special animals in the wild.  The best chances of this, I have been informed, is in the winter months when pandas descend to the valleys to escape the cold.  Tracking and spotting pandas is also easier with the abundance of snow and lack of foliage.

However, if you happen to time your visit to China and/or Shaanxi Province during autumn, I have discovered that it’s still a fantastic time to visit Changqing, offering the opportunity to hike among the beautiful fall colours of the Qinling region.  Having only arrived in early November, I have just managed to catch the tail end of autumn.  While the majority of my time so far has been spent settling into life in Huayang, I was fortunate enough to tag along on a couple of guided tours of Changqing conducted by our reserve staff as part of my orientation.

The main road into Changqing follows the river valley and so we make stops along the way to view a few waterfalls.  For me, it’s an opportunity to test out the settings of my new camera, something I made sure I had before I arrived.

At the lower elevations, the mountains are awash with the yellows, oranges and reds of China’s own species of oaks, maples and aspens.  There are also larch trees displaying a vibrant yellow, but after being informed that it is an introduced species (a remnant of Changqing’s past as a forestry reserve) I don’t allow myself to be impressed by their show.

One of the days we spend hiking high up in the mountains in the core summer habitat of the panda, where short thickets of bamboo grow underneath towering pines.  There are no pandas to see on this day, but I’m amazed by the number of scats (animal poo) along the track, indicating healthy populations of golden takin (Budorcas taxicolor bedfordi) and himalayan goral (Naemorhedus goral caudatus) are present in the area.  We even see a few scats of a carnivore, possibly from a leopard (Panthera pardus fusca)!!

While we left the fall colours a few hundred metres below, there are plenty of leafless birch trees which I find beautiful, particularly when the peeling bark is backlit by the sun, giving it striking red glow.

There are also some breathtaking views during the hike, in more ways than one.  At over 2700m, it is not high by Chinese standards, but coming from Australia where I live by the ocean, I struggle a little bit for breath.  I’ll use it as an excuse, anyway, as it’s better than giving off the impression that I’m simply unfit (I do notice, though, that my water bottle compresses on the descent down).

For one of the groups, wildlife is more their passion, and so we spend the majority of our time on the lookout for anything that moves.  These guys really know their stuff, and they certainly looked the part as well, with large DSLR cameras and telescopes being carried from place to place.  The group isn’t disappointed as we spot golden takin, Himalayan goral and wild boar (Sus scrofa moupinensis).  I learn a little trick in wildlife photography along the way, placing the lens of my compact digital up to the telescope to capture this close-up of our takin.

So, that’s about it for my first post.  From what I’ve already seen, Changqing has lots to offer, not just pandas.  If you’ve got time, I think it’s well worth making the effort to call in for a few days on your way between Xi’an and Chengdu, if only for some fresh mountain air and as respite from the hustle and bustle of China’s cities.

Over the following 11 months, I hope to provide a few more of the happenings here in Huayang and Changqing and also include some stories of my travels around this vast country of China.  Please feel free to leave comments or suggestions on what you may want me to cover.

This week has been a somewhat inspiring one for me from a professional perspective. As I think I have mentioned in a previous blog, China often gets bad international publicity when it comes to their environmental decisions and practices. I am not saying that this publicity is unfounded nor unwarranted, but rather that ‘good news stories’ about China just seem to be lacking in the international arena.

Changqing Staff who attended training

This week, Changqing National Nature Reserve, the reserve that I am working for, held a training program for its field staff and also a small number of its office staff. The focus of the training was ‘Eco-tourism’, and it was supported financially by WWF. The training was one of the priority actions that came out of Changqing’s recent ‘Ecotourism Action Plan’, a plan that focuses upon what Changqing Administrative Bureau hope to achieve in the coming three to five years.

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As an environmentalist I feel as though I am continually reading and hearing ‘bad news’ environmental stories (particularly about China!), which over time can erode at the optimism and hope we need to be effective. After all, historically it has been optimists that have changed the world, certainly not pessimists. So I thought in this blog, I would share with you a local good news environmental story. It’s about the Crested Ibis (Nipponia nippon).

Crested Ibis in Huayang (photographer Zhang Yongwen)

The Crested Ibis is a beautiful, large, white-plumaged ibis of pine forests, formally found throughout Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Russia and much of China However, by the 1960s and 1970s it was believed to be extinct, with no sightings of the bird for many years. This concerned numerous Chinese scientists, and as a result, the Forestry Protection Department of the Chinese Government assembled a team, led by Liu Yinzheng. This team spent years searching ideal Crested Ibis habitat throughout China. In 1981, their hard work payed off when Liu Yinzheng and his team arrived in Yangxian, the county closest to Changqing Reserve, and the location of Changqing Reserve Administrative Bureau’s main office. Here he and the team found seven remaining Crested Ibis individuals. While extremely exciting, with only seven individuals discovered, their job was still far from complete.

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Upon reflection, as a ‘city girl’, I guess I never thought much about where my food came from. I mean, don’t get me wrong, I knew apples grew on trees, and a pumpkin had to be way too heavy for that, so most likely grew on a vine … and I even had a mini (albeit fairly unsuccessful) veggie patch in my inner-city Melbourne share house. In fact, to be completely honest, friends of mine back home would probably testify that I investigate the origin of my food more than most, having chosen long ago the life of a ‘pescetarian’ (seafood eating vegetarian) for ethical reasons. However, my knowledge, until now, has been intellectual rather than experience based.

Autumn in Huayang, Shaanxi

Living, working and exercising in the town of Huayang has allowed me to watch my dinner grow before my very eyes. I have seen the full process, from seed to harvest of some of my favourite vegetables and grains – including eggplants, corn, pumpkin, beans, carrots, rice and wheat to name just a few. It has had a profound affect upon me, and while saying it is a spiritual experience may be taking it too far, at times it has certainly felt like it.  In the cities of the ‘wealthy west’ so often we fill our days and lives with the pursuit of meaningless things … and to watch farmers at work and vegetables slowly growing through the seasons is a nice reminder of our life sustaining needs and the hard work and reliance upon the elements that is required to obtain these necessities.

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