
WildChina Expert Spotlight is a new program for the Year of the Rabbit. WildChina will invite one of our experts to join us for dumpling lunch in the office every other Wednesday and give a short talk. The visit provides our entire staff with an inside scoop on the latest trends in local architecture, journalism, history, art, and countless other fields of interest. And not only do we get to hear some great stories and find out what our experts have been up to with their work, we also get to pass the information on to you.
This time, we welcomed David Spindler, one of the world’s foremost authorities on the history of the Great Wall. After relaying a gory story to the staff about greedy and overzealous soldiers hunting for Mongol heads, David sat down with me to talk Wall.
WildChina Travel: David, despite all your expertise, you still operate outside of academia. Why is that?
David Spindler: It’s never been a conscious choice; I just did it.
It has its advantages; I don’t think academia really lets you go out to the field for 50-80 days a year and spend a similar time in libraries every year, whether you’re a grad student or a professor.
WCT: What does a day in the field look like?
DS: I’m looking for sections of wall or signal towers, then – if and when I find them – recording them with field notes and photography. Another thing I do is locate place names in Ming dynasty texts in the field. That’s really the only time in my research when local knowledge is very, very helpful, because often the name for a place in the Ming dynasty is still the name they use now; or it’s so similar that you can be sure it’s the same.
WCT: I read in Peter Hessler’s Country Driving that you don’t like to see the Great Wall used as a national symbol, and prefer to see it portrayed as what it is: a defensive structure. Can you elaborate?
DS: It’s used as a symbol by Chinese governments. Starting with the Nationalist government and then the current Communist government who use it as a symbol of the Chinese nation; or more specifically, the Chinese people.
Basically, when China went from being an empire to trying to be a nation state, they needed all the things that nation-states need: symbols, things to rally around, and the Great Wall was chosen as one of them.
From my own personal perspective – as someone who focuses on the subject – it just adds a lot of noise if it’s politicized in that way. I wouldn’t say it causes a lot of problems for me, it just adds a little bit of potential political and cultural sensitivity.
WCT: And when it comes to tourism? Do you agree with the Wall’s “top dog” status?
DS: For sure. I think it deserves the place it has.
WCT: In 2011, what is the dream itinerary for a first-time Wall visitor?
DS: The dream itinerary is to go to Jinshanling, and for three reasons. Number one, it’s historic; a lot of important battles happened there. Number two, it’s scenic; it has a great long vista of the Wall. Number three, there aren’t many tourists.
WCT: What have you been up to lately?
DS: Since 2007, I’ve been working with the Oakland-based photographer Jonathan Ball, photographing significant battle sites along the Great Wall.
There’s a lot of pretty Great Wall photography out there. But that’s all it is, just pretty. You don’t learn anything, and it’s not historically relevant. What you’re looking at might not be a historically significant site. What we’ve tried to do is put people in the place of a participant in the battle, whether as a raider or as a defender.
We started the actual shooting in 2007, finished up in late 2008, and started showing it during the fall of 2009 in San Francisco and New York exhibitions. The New York show was actually at a WildChina client, Rockefeller Brothers Fund; they hosted a year-long show in their office. Most recently, we showed in Palo Alto, at the gallery of the Global Heritage Fund. We’re looking to show it in more places, including China, and anywhere.

WCT: We often hear about developers buying land and initiating projects that threaten historical relics; this has happened just recently at Simatai, a popular section of the Wall that closed last year. Do you see this as a broad threat?
DS: The thing that’s too bad about [the Simatai project] is that they’ve moved out all the local people. If the local people are gone, their geographic memory goes with them. If you have someone like me, who goes out into the field, and is trying to learn local place names…that knowledge is just gone, unfortunately. Unless someone has preserved it.
It’s definitely a broad threat. It’s happening all over; developers come in and lease large plots of land, residents are moved out, and with them goes that local knowledge.
It’s not just development that does that. There’s also a lot of natural migration that is taking people out of really remote villages with the same effect.
WCT: Let’s talk about personal milestones; you’ve got a couple coming up. How goes the quest to see every section of Ming Dynasty Wall?
DS: Well, it’s not actually all the Ming Wall; I don’t think anyone could ever get there. It’s actually a quest to see all of the Wall in the greater Beijing area. I thought I’d finished that early last year…but I still have probably 8 to 10 days go.
WCT: And you just told us that your 1000th day on the Great Wall is fast approaching.
DS: It’s going to happen after 2-3 days on the Wall…we’re between 995 and 1000. That’ll happen within a month.
WCT: Sounds good. Keep us updated, we’ll get the word out!
DS: [Laughs] Sure.

You can read more about David in our Experts section.
Image by Caroline Zhong