Great Wall

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Beijing’s whirlwind of development, like the rest of China’s, is having serious consequences for the city’s traditional neighborhoods. In wake of such destruction and construction, who is behind the movement to protect the structures of  Beijing’s past?

We spoke to Matthew Hu, Beijing-based cultural heritage preservationist and WildChina expert, about Chinese cultural tourism versus cultural preservation, the impending Gulou-area demolition, and what you don’t know about the Great Wall.

WildChina Travel (WCT): How did you first become interested in Chinese heritage preservation?

Matthew Hu (MH): As a Chinese citizen, I’m naturally very interested in Chinese history. I think it’s interesting: it tells me who I am and where I’m from. My generation has been taught history is a very censored, standard way that has been tightly controlled and approved by the government – it’s not very in-depth. In my various jobs relating to Chinese culture and cultural heritage preservation, I’ve always been asked by foreigners to explain my own culture. This prompted me to read more about Chinese history, to really understand it. In order to do so, you really have to understand Chinese heritage. It’s everywhere you go – historical sites, the buildings across from your home, etc. So, this is where my jobs took me. I learned about residential, storage, administrative, ceremonial, and other types of buildings present in Chinese history and culture. They tell you so much about what traditional Chinese culture is all about.

WCT: How have your professional and personal interests related to heritage preservation evolved over the years?

MH: At first, when I was in the travel industry, I went from place to place exploring different traditional Chinese structures. In heritage preservation, you do the same thing, but have more time to understand the rationale, historical background, hidden reasons, and socio-economic circumstances that contribute to the creation of a building or structure. So, my main focus in work has not changed, but rather become more focused. In any culture in China, whether it be Han Chinese or that of a minority group, I find that the most impressive aspect of it is usually the architecture that supports, literally and figuratively, their customs, beliefs, and other aspects of culture. Heritage preservation gives me the opportunity to understand how such structures accomplish this.

WCT: What have your latest projects/initiatives been relating to heritage preservation in China?

MH: Right now I am working on a hutong renovation and preservation project that integrates renovation training into the process. While it is certainly important for preservationists to renovate hutongs, local construction teams, as well as owners and tenants, need to know how to properly restore these homes for longer-lasting cultural impact and better structures. We are collaborating with the local government on training sessions on how to properly and sensitively renovate these courtyard homes, in order to maintain an air of tradition and authenticity. Correct practices are crucial to these homes’ upkeep; otherwise, they quickly deteriorate. For example, if one layer of plaster is put onto a hutong home being renovated, it is proper to wait 7 days until the next coating, so that the first layer is stable. Construction teams, in the interest of time and money, often keep putting on layers without waiting for that first coat to dry. You can see the difference – half a year later, these homes’ walls are already peeling. It’s important to get the details right in this process to properly and effectively preserve these structures.

WCT: Which type of Chinese structure, in your opinion, is most culturally important in China’s history? Why?

MH: It’s hard to say, but if I have to choose, I think the Great Wall and the hutongs. Both are much more diversified than many people think. Take the hutongs, for instance. Each one is different from the other. The culture in each area of hutongs is different as well. As for the Great Wall, each section is unique – different materials are used, aesthetics are different, and more. The Wall has been glorified because it is a symbol of Chinese civilization, but so much of it is neglected because some sections are in remote areas and don’t look as impressive as other parts. Both the hutongs and the Great Wall are largely misinterpreted and neglected.

WCT: In light of the Gulou demolition, how do you think the area will change? At this point, is there anything preservationists, activists, and citizens can do to protect the traditional hutongs?

MH: As of now, the government has already begun the project. It’s hard to say what we can do at this point. There is no public petition process, so the public cannot be part of the game. Anyone who cares about the hutongs can still go and document these areas, and preserve them in that way. While many see the demolition as a development that will be unsatisfactory to many parties, which I do not dispute, I am more inclined to look at it as a case study in understanding preservation versus economic impact. In the government’s eyes, not including the public opinion might save them money avoiding grassroots campaigns and petitioners to stop the development, which would mean jailings and other methods of control. In that way, they can coordinate a systematic method of renovation within the government. This system of disregarding public opinion, however, is not right, and so the outcome will not be satisfactory. We need to keep a close eye on this project and follow its development.

Explore these traditional neighborhoods while you still can – take a customized tour of Beijing with WildChina. Questions? Email us at info@wildchina.com or ask us on Twitter: @WildChina.

The movie critics don’t seem to think that highly of the new Karate Kid film, but I had a great time watching it with my 7-year-old son. It’s one of the few kid movies that I sat through without falling asleep in the middle, which unfortunately was the case with the fantastic Toy Story 3!

Here are my reasons for liking it:

Most importantly, I just LOVED the scenery shots. The kid practices his kicks at the Great Wall, visits the Forbidden City, and travels by train to Guilin to climb to the top of Wudang Mountain. All of these shots are simply beautiful!

Wudangshan is the Daoist Mountain where Mr. Han (the Kungfu Shifu) takes him to reach the sacred water source. The scenes of Daoists practicing meditation or Kungfu are Hollywood stage setups, but they are beautiful and at times, when traveling in China, you can find truly spiritual moments as such when visiting these sacred mountains.

One of my favorite Daoist Mountains to visit is called Weishan in Dali, Yunnan. It’s much smaller in scale, and is very little visited as Daoism isn’t gaining many followers these days. But, the Daoist temples scattered on the mountain offer a peaceful respite from the noise of Chinese towns. One of my favorite things to do is to hike to the highest temple and drink tea with the only resident Daoist, who grows all his own fresh produce at the temple. The tea costs RMB 1 (equivalent of 15 cents), and tastes pure and sweet after hiking there.

Now when it comes to logistics, however, I would NEVER recommend anyone to travel from Beijing by train to Guilin, to climb Wudang Mountain. So, please don’t follow Mr. Han on this route. Wudang Mountain is 800 miles south of Beijing, and Guilin (where the lovely Karst hills rise out of Li River) is another 800 miles further to the south. It would be a ridiculous detour – but it works in a movie.

So, walk in knowing it’s Hollywood, and enjoy the stunning scenery.

Another reason for liking it is the reality of China that’s portrayed in the film. Mei Ying (the Karate Kid’s love interest) and her family provide a small window into the life of an upper middle class family in China. Usually, it’s a small family of 3 people, mom, dad and the only child. The well-off Chinese families are buying up luxury cars like Audi or BMW, the successful mom and dad are very well dressed. The pressure on the only child is intense, with piano lessons and violin practice sessions everyday. The movie hasn’t quite shown the intense pressure for testing into colleges, but that would have distracted from the spotlight on the Karate Kid.

All in all, I find it entertaining, and absolutely worth watching for those considering visiting China. WildChina offers a classic family trip to China that incorporates Kungfu and some of the classic sites that viewers will find in the Karate Kid, like the Great Wall and Forbidden City.

I was very impressed by the beginning of the Lonely Planet China Guide book. “The Best of China” page offered a quick summary of the classic highlights of the country that one should never miss – The Forbidden City and the Great Wall of Beijing, the Terracotta Warriors of Xi’an, etc. The photos are beautiful. I also liked the section that introduced the writers, bringing a human face to advice they are dispensing. Then the Rural China, Eat China, Hike China and Red China pages all offered some interesting sites, and are very helpful for those who want to venture off the Yangtze Cruise to experience the real China.

But, to me, it also demonstrated the lack of access due to language constraint. For example, the Hike China section is a bit limited. Having hiked most of the trails listed in that section, I beg to differ. For example, the Yubeng hike, or Pilgrimage Trail to Mt. Kawagebo, is among the most breathtaking and spiritual hike. WildChina team members first hiked in this area in the late ’90s, and only now that trail is gaining some awareness among Chinese speakers. Not sure if the guide book is outdated or the writer didn’t know about it. Either way, I think there could be a better guide on hiking opportunities in China.

Then I went straight for the section on lodging (called “Sleeping” in the guidebook) in Beijing. It is unfortunately written by a backpacker who is too well-versed in adjectives such as “top notch”, “elegant,” “gorgeous,” “stunning,” “impressive,” “outstanding,” “splendid,” “enticing,” etc. I’ll save you the rest, but seriously, these words all appeared in 3 paragraph describing the St. Regis, Grand Hyatt, and China World Hotel. You can basically randomly re-allocate these words, and the information you are getting won’t change a bit.

Obviously, the writer hasn’t stayed in any of these places. I wish there were a few more details, such as the Made In China restaurant in the Grand Hyatt serves the best “Begger’s Chicken” and is one of the most interesting Chinese restaurants to dine in because of the open kitchen layout. You get to see the chefs tossing the greens in a wok alight with fire! Also, for families traveling with children, the China World Hotel Service Apartments offer the best option- with large rooms, ensuite kitchen, etc. (By the way, I think the Frommers Guide does a much better job with restaurant recommendations.)

Also, among the top notch is The Opposite House for its zen-like design and personal service – not to mention the beautiful Aman at the Summer Palace. These are the more boutique hotels that really make Beijng an interesting place in which to stay.

What got me most is the section on “Beijing for Children.” I have a feeling that the authors didn’t really travel to Beijing with kids. The hardest thing I found upon arriving in Beijing is how to kill the early morning hours due to jet lag.

Two very important things for me: breakfast at 金湖茶餐厅 / GL Cafe Restaurant,and morning walks in Ritan Park. The Café is a 24-hour Hong Kong style restaurant – very helpful at 4am when there is no other place to eat and the kids are crying! They have branch locations next to the St. Regis and the China World Hotel, and they have high chairs. Ritan Park is a major source of entertainment, as it opens at 6 am for the morning exercises. It’s an entertaining place for the kids to watch others play badminton, or do taiqi. Maybe it’s me, but I need to have the jetlag bunch taken care off before I can think of ice skating in Beijing.

For a good source of ideas and tips on what to do with kids in China’s capital, follow @BeijingWithKids on Twitter.

If you’ll be in the New York City area on March 1, don’t miss the reception for “China’s Great Wall: The Forgotten Story,” a series of large-scale, historically based photos of the Great Wall, being held at the Rockefeller Brothers Fund office from 6:00 to 9:00 pm (RSVP by Feb. 22).

This project is a collaboration between Jonathan Ball, a California-based photographer, and David Spindler, one of the world’s leading authorities on Great Wall history and a member of WildChina’s expert network. The event will include a conversation moderated by Christopher Phillips, a curator at the International Center of Photography and co-author of a recently published book on contemporary Chinese photography and video.

China's Great Wall: The Forgotten Story

WildChina recently interviewed David and Jonathan to learn more about their photo project:

WildChina (WCT): Where did the idea for the Forgotten Wall project come from?

David Spindler (DS): Jonathan and I were both living in Beijing in late 2006 and we started talking about how we could do a project combining his photography and my work on Great Wall history. As we started to think about our angle, the idea of photographing Great Wall battle sites from the points of view of raiders or defenders, on the anniversary of the battles and at the same time of day as the battles, came to us quite soon.

WCT: What skills and background did each of you bring to this project?

DS: I’m a historian who focuses on the Great Wall. I do my research in libraries all over the world and in the field. During the spring and fall, I spend a lot of time speaking to travel or study-abroad groups about this history. In this project, I was interested in applying what I had learned in a powerful, easily absorbed media—in this case, photography.

Jonathan Ball (JB): I’ve been a photographer nearly as long as I can remember – since I was about 11 years old. I have done many different kinds of photographic work over the years. My projects are varied; they include landscape work, portraiture, looser “slice of life” photos, building panoramic and other unusual pinhole cameras … I love new challenges and figuring out ways to solve them – this project provided them in spades, not least of which were the challenges of producing and displaying such large photographs.

WCT: What do you want to accomplish with this project?

DS: One of our goals is to bring the viewer back to the time and place of the battles, and to see them from the vantage point of a participant. Because of the methodology we’ve used, the light and vegetation in the images are nearly the same as what someone would have seen on the original battlefield. Because of the enormous size of the subject, we’ve made extremely large prints. We hope this makes it easier for viewers to more easily experience the time and place of the original events in a direct and powerful manner.

JB: I share the goals David states. Another aim of ours has been to produce a series of Great Wall photographs that is unlike the vast majority of Great Wall photos that have already been made. We have done this two ways: first, by underpinning the project with a rigorous historical approach that drove our decisions about what to photograph and when; and second, by making photographs that capture the points of view of participants in the battles that took place at the sites we depict.

The photographs in this project feature the landscape as much as they feature the Wall; they don’t simply romanticize the Wall. It’s an important contribution both to Great Wall scholarship and to fine art photography.

WCT: How did you first get interested in the Great Wall?

DS: My interest in Great Wall history stems from a general interest in history, in discovery and research and in endurance sports. My field and library research activities are an excellent way to satisfy these interests.

WCT: What are the key things a first-time visitor to the Great Wall should know?

DS: Probably the most important thing to keep in mind is that its sole purpose was defensive and there are many instances where the wall was a helpful part of successful defenses against Mongol attacks. Many of the myths in wide circulation have come about because people see a small section of wall and quickly extrapolate, using unfounded assumptions. It’s also important to keep in mind what we don’t know—that there’s no reliable figure for the overall length of the various Great Walls or even a consensus definition of what a Great Wall is. Great Wall Studies, if it’s even proper to use the word, is a field still in gestation. There is not a single academic anywhere in the world who focuses on this topic.

WCT: What/where is your favorite Great Wall spot?

DS: I dont have a personal favorite. When I’m speaking to groups in the field, I think it’s important to visit spots that are historically significant, visually appealing, and free of heavy human traffic. Jinshanling fits these requirements quite nicely.

WCT: What if people like your work from this project so much they would like to take it home with them?

DS: Collectors may acquire signed limited editions of the prints and captions – and six of the images in the series are available as 360-degree panoramas mounted in a circular frame that literally surround the viewer.

For more information about “China’s Great Wall: The Forgotten Story,” please contact Jonathan Ball or David Spindler.

One of my new favorite reads is ExpatPackage.com. A weekly newsletter with info on lesser-known Beijing sites and activities, it’s a fun and humorous take on life in China’s capital.

Their latest issue is on traveling with WildChina, and it makes a great case for sending visiting friends and family out for a day (or 10) with a guide. Enjoy!

One of the best things about working at WildChina is hearing the stories that our guests bring back from their trips.

A few weeks ago our clients Jay and Erica got engaged to be married while hiking on the Great Wall. Our guide Bruce was there to snap pictures as Jay got down on one knee and proposed, and the look on Erica’s face is priceless.

Engaged on the Great Wall

Congratulations! Engaged on the Great Wall

Congratulations and best wishes!

(Jay and Erica gave WildChina permission to post their pictures. We’re so glad we could share in their happy day.)

Michael Yamashita

This October, Michael Yamashita will lead a 9-day photography journey on the Silk Road. We caught up with Michael Yamashita to chat about photography tips, his passion for the Silk Road, and the lessons he hopes to share on the road this fall.

For over 25 years, Michael Yamashita has covered the world, with a concentration on all things Asia, as a photographer for the National Geographic. In his work, he has combined his dual passions for photography and travel, and shot on assignment on six continents. In addition, he has authored seven books, including Marco Polo: A Photographer’s Journey, Zheng He and The Great Wall, and produced two full-length documentary films, featuring Mr. Yamashita as writer and host. Mr. Yamashita has received numerous awards for his work. His photographs have been shown in major exhibitions in Beijing, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Taipei, Rome, Venice, Frankfurt, Perpignan, France and Massachusetts, USA. Mr. Yamashita is a frequent lecturer and instructor for photography workshops around the world.

When not on assignment, Mr. Yamashita lives in rural New Jersey where he is a volunteer firefighter.

WildChina (WC): How did you first become interested in the Silk Road?

Michael Yamashita (MY): I did a three-part story for the National Geographic about Marco Polo in 2001.  I retraced his route to China, much of which followed the Silk Road. I used Marco’s book, The Description of the World, written in the 13th century, as a sort of travel guide. Working on that story was an incredible eye-opener, mainly because so much of what Marco Polo wrote about can still be seen and photographed today. It was an amazing experience to still be able to find things today that the world’s greatest traveler described over 700 years ago.

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William Lindesay has lived in China for 14 years during which he has spent “more than 800 days on the Great Wall.” In 1987, he made what China’s Xinhua News Agency described as “the most successful foreign exploration of the Great Wall”, and he recounted his 2,470 km solo adventure in “Alone on the Great Wall” published in the UK, USA and Germany. In 2005, “Walking on the Wall with William Lindesay” was listed as one of the 50 travel experiences of a lifetime by the UK edition of Conde Nast Traveller. As one of the world’s foremost experts on the Great Wall, and a phenomenal Wall guide, WildChina is honored to be able to share William’s insights on one of the world’s wonders.

WildChina: When did you first start taking guests to the Great Wall?

William Lindesay: I guess it was about 10 years ago now. Actually, [we're talking on] Dec 4th, and 21 years ago on this day I reached Shanhaiguan at the end of my journey along the wall on foot. Obviously, I had a story to tell, so I published my first book. China was not the flavor of the moment like it is now, so it was not perceived as exciting for travelers to come here. Towards the end of the ’90s I began spending a lot of time biking near the Wall, and taking lots of photos. My wife was becoming not a golf widow, but a Wall widow, so I wanted to include her in my passion. We bought a little farmhouse near the wall, and one of my friends suggested that we invite guests to stay with us, so we did that. I found that our first visitors welcomed not just the Great Wall story, but my story – the story of conservation, why I liked the Wall, and how I first discovered it.

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One of our new associates, Sarah, happened to find this picture of  WildChina at work on the Great Wall at Mutianyu on the China Daily website.  China Daily is China’s English-language newspaper.

WildChina on the Great Wall at Mutianyu

For this event, WildChina brought costumed guards to the Great Wall at Mutianyu for our clients to take pictures with. I bet the China Daily photographer wanted one too – maybe next time?

We also had a yo-yo master, a taichi expert, and Imperial costumes for guests to wear for photos on the Wall. We’ve been doing similar activities in the Forbidden City recently, and it’s been really fun for everyone involved, especially for people who’d been to those places before. (OK, maybe not so fun for the guards wearing all of that armor in August Beijing sun, but they had great attitudes about it and didn’t complain at all. Really nice guys!)

With the Opening Ceremony of the Olympics less than 3 days away, Beijing is gearing up for an incredible couple of weeks of games, celebrations, and international goodwill. Here at WildChina, we’re incredibly excited about the Games, and the spotlight they’ll bring to the city we call home.

At the same time, the torch relay and athletic events occurring here in China’s capital add an extra dimension of planning for anyone touring Beijing in August. Here’s a quick overview of a few of the changes we’re aware of:

1.         The torch relay from August 5th(today!) to 8th will involve the China Millennium Monument(中华世纪坛), Temple of Heaven, the Badaling Great Wall, and Jinshan Park. During this time, sites will be closed partially or entirely, and trips there may be difficult.

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